Carl Jan Cruz, Proudrace and Pr()blem picked as ‘Vogue’ Talents

MANILA, Philippines — In the age of the internet, fashion has evolved into a democracy with everyone turning into self-proclaimed tastemakers and curators. Yet,the ultimate authority inarguably still belongs to editors — with no set of editors quite as prolific as those at the helm of Vogue. That being said, to be commended by the esteemed magazine is nothing short of a great feat. This year, three local brands — Carl Jan Cruz, Proudrace, and Pr()blem — achieved just that as they were recognized as Vogue Talents.

Known as Vogue Italia’s “laboratory for new talent,” Vogue Talents is a platform that recognizes up and coming creatives from all over the world. The venture has opened doors for many emerging designers. Rik Rasos of Proudrace explains, “Because of Vogue Talents we are doing Pitti Imagine in Milan this September.” Jennifer Contreras of Pr()blem points out how the program provides designers from Third World countries with an avenue to share their work with a global audience — a constant struggle.

“It makes great sense now that we are in an age where the way things are made is credible because talent and authenticity is more in demand now by these kinds of platforms and the challenge of seeing beyond the noise produced by the digital age is always present,” shares Carl Jan Cruz. “Being recognized is humbling; it shows that anything is possible if you just never stop doing what you truly believe in doing.”

Here, we get to know more about the three brands and the collections that catapulted them into Vogue’s stratosphere.

Carl Jan Cruz

Carl Jan Cruz refers to his eponymous line as a visual autobiography. “The brand started as an honest dialogue between personal past and present. Though as I move forward, it has become a contemporary reflection of the Filipino way of life, subdividing our collection to Pambahay (homeware), Pang-alis (going-out clothes), and Pang-okasyon (occasion clothes),” he explains. This collection was created through constant sampling, following through with the narrative of Cruz’s day-to-day life. “There was no particular inspiration,” he shares.

?The brand is currently holding its showroom week in Manila (Feb. 11-17) simultaneously as the team prepares for their first presentation in Paris Fashion Week in March.

Proudrace

No one explains Proudrace better than designer Rik Rasos, “Proudrace is rooted in the underground. A contemporary label that focuses on approximations and distortions of traditional and staple pieces into contemporary clothing inspired by street culture and subculture references.” Using random materials and textiles in unique ways — jacket ribbings for sweaters, vintage denim for brand new trousers, Hanes T-shirts repurposed — is what gives this collection an edge. “They actually reviewed all of our collections in the process and they picked the label as a whole. It’s more of how we are presenting ourselves, I guess,” Rasos shares. “There’s really no science to it. Clichéd as it may sound, you just have to be yourself. Represent your label with sincerity.”

This year, on a personal note, Rasos is going back to his roots and producing more art. The brand, however, is pretty busy prepping for Pitti Imagine in September. Other plans? True to the brand, “We’re just gonna keep making clothes that we like.”

Pr()blem

Provocative, unafraid, androgynous — these are keywords behind Jennifer Contreras’ brainchild, Pr()blem. “I always say that I don’t like defining the brand because I don’t like to put it in a box, that it should just stay as it is or how I define it now,” Contreras explains. “I like for the brand to evolve and to change. It can be whatever I want it to be.” Named Problem Child,the collection is heavily inspired by the work of Romina Ressia. “She’s big on anachronism and she has a very strong Renaissance influence,” Contreras shares. Fly Art, viral memes by Cecilia Azcarate, and Stanley Kubrick films also inspired Contreras as she worked on it. “The whole idea of the collection is to present angst and sexuality in something so old-fashioned like the Renaissance.”

On March 10, Pr()blem will release a new collection in collaboration with a mystery artist — something Contreras is personally excited for.