Off to a blue start
PARIS — Paris Fashion Week opened on Tuesday to a blue start electric blue, that is. The arresting hue was a favorite at the Moon Young Hee show, where the designer placed swaths of the color as extra finishes on the chest of sleeveless jackets. The blue was used in mini-dresses and structured tops. The motif of the show was billowing fabric, which stuck out of the backs of dresses and the fronts of necklines. There was a controlled look to the billows, which were constructed out of stiff organza and thicker cottons. Hems were often unfinished and reminiscent of early ‘90s experimentation by Belgian designers: deconstructed or placed like a giant gift wrapper on torsos. The giftwrapping effect gave the ensembles an avant-garde edge.
The same electric blue was the only splash of color in the black, white and gray show of designer Christine Phung, one of the winners of the Andam Awards held annually in Paris. The prestigious Andam Awards aids its winners with government funds. Phung’s collection was named “Liquid Dilusion†and it aimed to explore the possibilities of water. There was fluidity in each piece, which included a white iridescent material that looked like plastic, reversible jacquard and digitally-printed lace. Even with the designer’s experimentation with patchwork, softly gutted seams and sculptural “waves†meant to mimic water, the collection remained wearable. Pleats looked organic as they wove down one dress. Bodices showed skin, emphasizing an airy openness.
The Tommy Hilfiger spring/summer 2014 collection, which was shown in a press re-see fresh from its New York runway show held on Sept. 9, was equally inspired by water: its sporty activities and its beachcomber’s waves. The surfing lifestyle was captured in the leather jackets lined with neoprene, contrasting-zipper details, and floral-print bits. Inspirations from the West Coast include easy tailoring on jackets, denim and chambray. Hawaiian prints and athletic details are seen throughout the collection, while grosgrain details line shorts. The surf and turf hybrid extend to the accessories, which include graphic colorful belts and bracelets, and reinterpretations of the brand’s polo shirts and jackets. The American West coast look is finished off in the shoes, which includes graphic and colorful prints.
The Aganovich collection for spring/summer 2014 emphasized the high waist, with origami-like pleats and folds hugging the mid-torso. Pleated fabric hung loosely from the upper back down to the waist and sashayed as the models turned. Jacquard was part of the story, in Mandarin collars, but the focus of the collection was on the fold and the pleat. Slight tucks were seen in the ensembles’ backs to give shape and softness.
“The Tribe of the Seven Seas†was the title of the Julien David collection. The emphasis was on the “waffle,†or the mesh fabric sewn with appliques that looked like they were floating on top of dresses and shirts. These included palm trees, leaves, buoys and islands. The base was more familiar territory: printed lamé jersey, cotton jacquard, a skirt with sequins. The scallop shapes on buckled shoes remained a staple throughout the show.
The Seoul Metropolitan Government held an event to celebrate five of its 10 designers: the female half of its Soul 10 initiative. The event is held annually in Paris.
The brand Leyii showed perforated separates; the pieces looked refreshing and on-trend for spring/summer 2014 with a street-savvy feel. “I was inspired by the ‘60s,†said designer Lee Seunghee, whose nod to mod included metallic mid-thigh pieces. Imseonoc’s collection, entitled “PartsParts,†was made to look “modern, technical and futuristic.†Designer Imseonoc explained that each piece was made of polyurethane and parts of clothing not sewn together but laminated and fused together by a machine. The Studio K Artist made used waterproof fabrics. Studio K’s collection was inspired by sound waves and the prints on the cotton were meant to evoke photos of them. Jackets were convertible to trenchcoats.
