Milan and Paris men's fashion week: Color, tailoring and artisanal qualities

Burberry Prorsum

MANILA, Philippines - It blinded the eyes, but the statement was straight to the point: color, metallic colour, was trend for next summer. Like colored tinfoil, blue and plum trenches wrapped the models’ bodies. The crop of the metallic bomber jackets, particularly one with a collar, on the runway upturned, gave the color a fresh edge. In a standing-collar shirt, the color, unadulterated, was an easy focus. But it was the printed textile that looked most hip –– part-ethnic, part-relaxed-pajama, light and fresh for the spring. In a bomber cut, the textile shone; sporty, it was another coup for the brand, and peeking out as cuffs of a shirt ever so slightly of a tweed coat, a subtly cool accent.

Gucci

The Gucci man remains true to his Italian heritage; the collection called to mind easy lazy summers, sitting lazily on a garden chair and watching the magic of the ocean unfold. Green and yellow jackets in simple, easy tailoring make the suits go from day to night. Wearable anywhere, the collection seemed to say — although the periwinkle loafers, clearly, were for lighter occassions, play. The oranges and blues called to mind southern Italy and a lifestyle accustomed to travel: true to brand icons and codes.

Henrik Vibskov

There was an art installation in the middle of the runway: a giant inflating pink tube with black hats mushrooming as the tube inflated, and bodies sticking out of through the holes slowly. At first it seemed that the bodies might be trying to escape but they instead were moving as if to express what they wanted: one was dancing, one was limp. What looked at first like a struggle to emerge from the tube turned out to be less a forceful statement than entertainment as the models walked down the runway in outfits punctured by holes, or adorned with circles or mushrooming caps. Some prints were reminiscent of ikat. A navy midthighjacket and pants with a black and white print on the front was a stylish total look.

Paul Smith

The bright colors of summer, in yellow and blue and orange for many brands, evoke an air of youthfulness. Paul Smith’s bright reds look ready for a wider market. Age, here, is not so important; the tailoring and easy sweaters, in Smith style, retain a classic vibe. Bomber-cardigans hit the hips coolly; there is just that hint of sportiness but the collection remains true to the Paul Smith man: he can go anywhere, casual-relaxed but modern, down to his striped textile bag.

Walter Van Beirendonck

The collection, said Walter Van Beirendonck, came about from ideas of fashion not necessarily appreciating the fast pace of the digital world. More artisanal in styling, down to the handcrafted accessories of paper and paint, the collection nevertheless showed easy, wearable pieces: silk plaid jackets and pants, striped cotton jackets, and white tuxedo shirts. The langourous feel of the clothing was contrasted by rope that bound the torso, a metaphor that many other shows of the season lacked.