Lights, camera, Hong Kong
June 4, 2004 | 12:00am
The third day of our Hong Kong experience began with a trip to an island so beautiful that it has never left my mind. I am talking about a small, spectacular wonder called Lantau Island. It’s a place that’s brimming with Chinese culture and traditions, and that feeling of antiquity just awakens something sensual in one’s spirit. The island is said to be the biggest outlying island in Hong Kong – around twice the size of Hong Kong Island. Looking around, I could see why it’s quite a popular choice among hikers and nature lovers.
My first stop was the Tai O Fishing Village, a century-old fishing village. Walking around the village, I got to see the really simple lifestyle of the fisherfolk. They ride bikes and/or boats. They wear simple clothes, loose enough to keep them cool, especially when the heat of the sun is at its most intense. They’re blessed with the bounties of the sea, which the very resourceful villagers have made good use of. I was so impressed to see various dried or preserved seafoods being sold in the village, from one shop to another. There were big dried scallops, mussels, clams, dried abalone and the rather exotic dried starfish. I was told that these dried delicacies really taste good provided one knows how to cook them. Unfortunately, I don’t, so I had to content myself with their fragrant smell.
Our next stop was a grand place of worship. I was in awe on catching a sight of the Giant Buddha. It is the world’s tallest, outdoor, seated, bronze Buddha statue. I simply felt the need to get closer. It didn’t take long before I did. With a bottle of water in hand, I made my way up approximately 280 steps towards the big statue. Upon reaching the peak, I could not help but admire the statue even more. Weighing 202 tons, the magnificent statue sits on a lotus throne with its eyes looking down as if it were the guardian of the island. Well, this statue has also had a movie appearance. In the movie Infernal Affairs III, Eric Tsang met Chen Daoming by the grand statue that drew the conclusion to this three-part movie masterpiece.
Going down, I visited the serene-looking Po Lin Monastery. I couldn’t help but admire the monastery’s intricate design that carries both Chinese and Thai influences. Inside are awesome golden Buddha statues. With our hectic morning itinerary, we seemed to have worked up quite an appetite and so, we headed to a nearby vegetarian restaurant for yet another sumptuous meal. The restaurant had antique wooden chairs and tables covered with rose-printed yellow cloths. Although the meal was strictly vegetarian, I doubt it if any carnivore could resist the food that was served. First off, we had a steaming bowl of thick clear soup full of assorted kinds of mushrooms and various Chinese herbs. I enjoyed this hot soup so much, especially with a good dose of chili. Next came a succession of veggie delights: Vegetable spring rolls, braised assorted mushrooms with some Chinese greens, stir-fried mock shrimp veggie meat with asparagus and mushrooms and finally, "lemon chicken," which is really a thread-like sliced tofu served in sweet and tangy lemon sauce.
After a hearty lunch, we were off to continue our shopping. This time, though, I intended to "shop from the past." We visited Cat Street, where we found a row of stalls that sells Chinese antiques. From teapots to figurines and statues to old Chinese posters to small bracelets, the place has it all and, what’s more, they’re sold at quite a good price. Next, we walked back to the modern times as we rode the Central Mid-Levels escalator featured in the movie Chungking Express. Measuring 800 meters long, it is the world’s longest covered escalator. Riding through it made me realize how convenient it is. It links Des Voex Road Central near the harbour to the Conduit Road. You can choose to stop in the Soho area where there are lots of restaurants and shops. The escalator runs downhill from 6 to 10 a.m. and uphill from 10:30 p.m. till midnight.
After a good escalator hike, we were off to Pottinger Street, where another scene from the movie Infernal Affairs was shot. Pottinger Street is a bustling place full of shops and cafés. After awhile, we made our way to the tallest building in Hong Kong, the IFC Tower II, which was featured in Angelina Jolie’s Tomb Raider 2. Near the IFC Tower is the IFC Mall with shops like Valentino, Kate Spade and Prada, to name a few. Although this mall is not yet completely filled with shops, it has already been attracting quite a horde of shoppers. The Pacific Coffee Company, along with some Japanese and Italian restaurants, can be found here.
Next, we were set to visit a brilliant man. Meet Leung Long Kong. Leung Long Kong who? It’s a name Hong Kong women are most familiar with. Leung Long Kong is a cheongsam maker who dresses Hong Kong celebrities like Maggie Cheung, who wears his cheongsams in her movies and celebrity events. Looking very sprightly in his 70s, he says his love affair with the cheongsam started when he was 15. Since then he’s mastered the art of making such fine pieces of clothing by hand, which only a few in Hong Kong could do. Now you know why his cheongsams are not cheap. A cheongsam, which would take two weeks to make, easily fetches HK2, 500.
For dinner, we went to Goldfinch Restaurant, where the romantic pair in the movie In the Mood for Love had dinner, too. The restaurant is quite small and incredibly cozy. It gives the impression of a Chinese diner with its narrow face-to-face couches, edgy lights and fern-printed wallpaper. We had sauteed sausage spaghetti served with large diced tomatoes, garoupa fillet with abalone, baked mussels with cheese and garlic served on a bed of whipped potatoes and the restaurant’s specialty, black pepper steak served medium rare. Simply delicious!
After an equally delicious breakfast of dim sum the following day, we took a cool sampan ride along Aberdeen, just like what Angelina Jolie did in her movie Tomb Raider 2. The ride allowed me a glimpse of the lifestyle of Hong Kong’s simplest folk. They live in floating boats and simply go to the shore to work. These hardy people work so hard to improve their living conditions.
From Hong Kong’s poorest, we went to the Repulse Bay Area, where the Hong Kong millionaires usually choose to stay. Looking at the view, I could certainly see why. The area is located quite a distance from the business districts, and the buildings are situated in such a way that its apartment owners can take in the breathtaking view of the sea and the mountain coast from their windows. We went to the Repulse Bay Complex, formerly Repulse Bay Hotel. Simply stunning, the place is a popular choice for party venues. It elegantly mixes cream with light and dark shades of brown to give the place a Mediterranean-English feel. In this complex, you will find some shops, a restaurant and the Pacific Coffee Company.
Our next destination was a historical building known as Murray House. This Colombian-inspired, two-story building is actually a restaurant featured in the movie Fighting for Love. It seems simple from the outside with its bricks in a simple shade of gray. It’s a popular happening place among Hongkongites. Up next was a little shopping trip at the Stanley Market, where Jackie Chan and Shu Qi shot yet another scene in their movie Gorgeous. The market has such an electric energy. Here, you’d see people going from shop to shop, usually, ending up with one or two or more shopping bags in both hands. Personally, I enjoyed looking at the Chinese paintings that I would love to decorate my room with. I also had fun watching people customize stamps for their customers with their names written in Chinese. How I wish I could have stayed here longer!
The last stop of our Hong Kong film-inspired experience was Victoria Peak, where a scene from the film City of Glass was taken. Perched at quite a high point, it is the ideal place to get a breathtaking view of Hong Kong – its skyscrapers, the harbour and the untouched mountains. Surely, no filmmaker can resist not having this view in his film! At night, there are vendors who set up their stalls at the viewpoint itself. Visitors can choose from a wide array of goods, such as table runners, table covers, place mat and chopstick sets, along with cute things like bracelets and blinking earrings. At the opposite of the Peak Tower stands the Peak Galleria, where people can also do some shopping.
We went inside the Peak Tower to check out Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum. I enjoyed seeing Michelle Yeoh, Yao Ming, Jackie Chan, Pierce Brosnan, David Beckham and Bruce Lee, along with a younger version of Cher and the Beatles – their wax figures, that is, that look almost like the original. The museum explains how the wax statues were made. At the gift shop, if you’re tempted to have a wax figure of your own hand, the staff would be willing to assist you.
As a grand finale to our journey, we had yet another sumptuous lunch at the Peak Lookout Restaurant, which was impressively transformed from a century-old Peak Café. The restaurant has been around since after the Second World War. From the roadside, the place looks rather simple. Fact is, it looks more of an old house rather than a restaurant. Walking in though, you realize that this is not just another dining establishment. It is both stylish and cozy with its warm brown interiors leading to a plant nursery-like patio, which flows right out onto a breezy terrace with a fountain in the center. Similar to Wolfgang Puck’s Spago in Beverly Hills, the Peak Lookout Restaurant encloses its cooking area in see-through windows, which allow diners to watch how their food is cooked. A gigantic wine cellar rests on one side of the wall in rich chocolate brown wood. Beside it is a bar with a long, chocolate brown table as well. The entrees on the menu are quite pricey, but from the way the executive chef from New Zealand cooks the food, I would say it’s worth every cent. Must-try is the vegetable canneloni generously covered in melted mozzarella cheese, along with the crab cakes topped with black caviar. There’s a wide variety of tandoori dishes served with big, grilled flat naan bread and creamy yogurt dressing. For dessert, the general manager recommends the warm chocolate cake, which is a hit among Hong Kong celebrities.
Winding up our four-day visit, on our way to the airport, I remember feeling quite exhausted from all the things I did in Hong Kong. However, I could not help but put on a wide grin, as I know how much I will cherish this Hong Kong experience that has left me with a lifetime of good memories.
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