Looking for Napoleon Bonaparte in Corsica
Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean, was ruled by the Italian city-state of Pisa, and later by Genoa, until Genoa ceded it to the French King Louis XV in 1768. While the island is part of France and traces its roots from Italy, Corsica is fiercely, fiercely Corsican. The principal language is French, although Corsican (more closely related to Italian than French) is also taught in schools.
Corsica, with its beautiful coastline, rugged mountains, farmlands and vineyards, is complete onto itself and, if the people can help it, not dependent on the mainland. Ask for some sparkling water and you will receive Orezza, which is made in Corsica! No Perrier nor San Pellegrino here. Loyal to what grows or what is made on the island, even small food stalls proudly display signs that say “Corsica.”
Ajaccio, facing the gulf of the same name, is the capital of Corsica. The beloved French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte was born here in 1769. He was baptized in The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption of Ajaccio (built between 1577 and 1593) and on his deathbed wished to be buried there. (He is buried at Les Invalides in Paris.)
The family home, Maison Bonaparte, is now a museum, full of stories, legends and memorabilia, supporting the cult following for this monarch. Napoleon lived there until he was nine years old, when he went to study at a military school. He would, from time to time, visit Corsica and conduct meetings in his home.
Not surprisingly, every other bar and restaurant is named Napoleon or Bonaparte, showing how much the Corsicans adore their Emperor or, at least, are earning a living from his fame.
The seaport is in a frenzy of activity every day. Ferries from Toulon, France and Genoa, Italy bring people to and from Corsica and dock in Porto Vecchio. Humongous cruise ships unload thousands of passengers who spend the day in town. Private yachts and fishing boats crowd the busy harbor.
Seafood restaurants line the street and waiters enjoy friendly banter with the fishermen who have unloaded their fresh catches and are busy cleaning their nets for the next morning’s sail.
The Ajaccio open market on Place Foch is in the center of the old town. It brims with local produce flowers, cheese, vegetables, nuts, fresh fish and shrimp, sausages and hams. Locals and visitors alike can actually purchase all the food they need for a picnic on the nearby beach, in the company of friendly seagulls.
Even if European brands are present on the main avenue, Cours Napoleon, there are a number of boutiques that belong to Corsican fashion designers or jewelers. On the pedestrians-only Rue du Cardinal Fesch (he is the half-uncle of Napoleon Bonaparte), the National Fesch Museum contains one of Europe’s finest collections of Italian Renaissance paintings and Napoleonic collections of art, second only to the Louvre.
There are so many other places to visit in Corsica, many good reasons for a second visit. Just make sure that tours are reserved way before the visit. Tours do not seem to work on weekends, and are fully booked on weekdays.
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