Ilocos norte: The merienda chronicles

MANILA, Philippines - Driving 500 kilometers north of the capital, I was rewarded with a delectable food adventure where I indulged in the filling and mouth-watering meriendas of the North.

From Manila, you’ll first pass the town of Currimao, Ilocos Norte. Odd as the name may sound, this quiet town is a perfect place to kick off your Ilocos Norte food trip.

Located along the national highway, Irene’s Native Delicacies sells tasty rice cakes which have become a favorite merienda of both locals and tourists. Instead of the usual grill, the family-owned business uses a large wood-fired oven or pugon for their freshly baked special tupig and bibingka.

When taken out of the pugon, popping sounds from the toasted upper layer of the tupig wrapped in banana leaf heralded the treat that was to come.

“We specifically use acacia wood from Pagudpud for our pugon, this ensures the consistency of heat and the aroma of our products,” said owner Arcenia Suga.

The special tupig – the recipe for which she formulated 40 years ago – easily becomes a hit with its sweet and smoky taste that blends perfectly with its toasted crust and chewy center of melted cheese and young coconut strips.

The store also sells special bibingka – flavored rice cake with coconut milk topped with diced nuts. Special deliveries can be arranged and customers are advised to book their orders at least three days ahead.

From the day of its purchase, the delicacy can last up to three days but I think a kakanin this good wouldn’t even last a day. Honestly, I had three before we left. The special tupig goes for P10 each while the bibingka sells for P50 each.

The glory of Batac’s orange meat pastry

A 15-minute drive from Currimao is Batac, tagged as the “Home of Great Leaders” as the town is the birthplace of the late former President Ferdinand Marcos. His memorabilia – as well as the glass-entombed, preserved remains of the former President – can be found at the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum.

Hungry after the tour of the museum, we went for an afternoon snack at Batac Riverside Empanadaan where a line of stalls selling freshly cooked empanadas can be found.

The most famous of them is Glory’s Empanada that placed Batac empanada on the culinary map. Founded by Gloria Aduana Cocson, the stall currently attracts both local and foreign tourists. The orange colored empanada has a mixture of papaya strips, egg, Ilocos longganisa and bean sprouts wrapped in a flour dough then deep-fried for 5-8 minutes. Adding sukang Iloko (local vinegar) makes a very interesting counterpoint to the taste of the filling. Empanadas start at P35, depending on your preferred filling.

So famous has this delicacy become that every 23rd of June, Batac holds the Empanada Festival to celebrate this famed orange afternoon snack.

Rise of kakanins

Each province in the Philippines has its own version of rice cake that is usually made with coconut and coconut milk.

Ilocos Norte has its version of the palitaw, which they call tinudok – a rice cake slowly cooked in boiling water, garnished with coconut strips and sugar then served on a barbecue stick. Linapet latik is another kind of rice cake that is also a must try, as is busi, sticky rice cooked in coconut milk that is lighter than the other varieties.

Now that you are nourished with extra energy, a good two hours’ drive from Laoag City will take you to the towns of Burgos and Pagudpud, where wide white sand beaches and beautiful rock formations can be found.

Burgos is also famous for its windmills and the scenic trek to Cape Bojedor lighthouse.

Kapuluan Vista Resort in Pagudpud is known for its surfing activities and sumptuous meals. The resort also pioneered sustainable farming that inspired other resorts in the area. Some of the special dishes that they offer are the tasty mulberry salad, eggless leche flan and pesto quesadilla rolls.

All the ingredients are organic and non-GMO for a sumptuous but healthy treat.

From its breath-taking sunsets to stargazing on a clear Ilocos night, the northern province offers visitors so much to see, experience and enjoy – all on a full stomach. PHOTOS BY FERNAN NEBRES