Callos–Again!

CEBU, Philippines — I must confess that, personally, I love “Callos” so much that I couldn’t seem to get enough of it. The rich flavor of the dish always leaves me feeling satisfied and full. And so I find it hard to resist the urge to try cooking every “Callos” recipe that comes my way.

Actually called “Callos a la Madrileña,” it is a Spanish dish with humble origins in Madrid, where ox tripe has always been an inexpensive ingredient. In that Spanish city, “Callos” has reportedly been enjoyed since the 15th century, from the so-called ‘wastes’ of beef. It probably does not need an explanation how the dish reached the Philippines, as the country has once been a Spanish colony.

Some origin theories say that the original “Callos” came from Asturias, also in Spain. And yet there are many similar dishes outside of Spain, for instance the caen-style tripes in France. Tripe recipes have been found elsewhere in a cookbook that dates back to 1599 and in a 1607 recipe book where it is described as “a beef tripe delicacy.”

Of all the beef-tripe recipes that have cropped up over the years, “Callos a la Madrileña” remains the best known preparation. But that title seems to refer to the dish that is attributed to Madrid as its place of origin. As it has spread to other places – to the Philippines, for example – the Madrid attribution has been blurred, and certain twists applied to the recipe. 

While ox tripe used to be served only in lowly taverns and dining rooms in the 19th century, it is now served alongside finer meats in the most elegant restaurants. “Callos,” as it is now generally known anywhere outside of Spain, is no longer a dish only for the poor. In fact, for a time in the Philippines it was even mistaken as an exclusive for the old rich.

These days, anybody who’s eager enough may try cooking “Callos” at home. I’ve just tried another “Callos” recipe, which the whole family – the little kids included – really liked. This other, a bit more lavish recipe from the website https://panlasangpinoy.com is really worth trying:

“Callos”

Ingredients:

1 ½ lbs. ox feet veal shanks, cleaned

2 lbs. ox tripe, cleaned

15 oz. garbanzo beans

8 oz. tomato sauce

2 pcs chorizo de bilbao, sliced

¼ lb. bacon, sliced crosswise in 1 inch length

1 large bell pepper, cut into thick strips

1 large onions, sliced

¼ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 teaspoon salt

½ tsp. ground black pepper

1 medium sized carrot cubed

1 teaspoon whole peppercorn

4 cups water

Procedure:

1. Pour water in a casserole or cooking pot and bring to a boil.

2. Put-in the onion, whole peppercorn, ox feet, and ox tripe. Simmer until the ox feet and tripe are extremely tender (you may use a slow cooker or pressure cooker for this step).

3. Remove the ox feet and tripe from the cooking pot and let it cool down for a few minutes. Set the stock aside for later use.

4. Cut the ox tripe into bite size pieces and debone the ox feet. Set aside.

5. Heat a large wok or pan then pour in the olive oil.

6. Add chorizo de bilbao and bacon, and then cook in medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes.

7. Pour in the tomato sauce then let boil.

8. Add the tender ox feet and tripe and 2 cups of stock (water used to boil ox feet and ox tripe), then simmer for 10 minutes.

9. Add salt and pepper then put in the carrots. Simmer for 3 minutes.

10. Put in the gabanzos beans and bell pepper then simmer for 10 minutes.

Transfer to a serving dish. Serve hot. Share and enjoy!

A Word of Caution: The cook shall be careful when choosing the chorizo bilbao, as some varieties have such a strong taste that may overpower the other flavors in the dish. “Callos” itself is said to trigger gout.