A walk down Cebu City's memory lane

CEBU, Philippines - It all started here. The discovery of the Philippines mainly happened in Cebu. From here, the rest of the archipelago came to be claimed by Spain.

What would have happened if Magellan didn’t drop anchor at Cebu, and simply passed by and proceeded to who-knows-where? For sure, the country’s early history would have been different. And perhaps Cebu would not have evolved into the Queen City of the South that it is today.

Among Cebuanos, however, the colorful history of their city does not seem to draw much thought anymore. True, they still troop in droves to kneel before the image of the Santo Niño, the icon that Magellan gave to the native queen of Sugbo (the city’s former name as a village) after her conversion to Christianity in 1521. But this the Cebuanos, as well as people from all over the country, do for their Christian fate and not necessarily because the icon connects them to their past.

Yes, of course, given the story of how it came to find a home in Cebu, the Santo Niño image is as much historical as religious. In fact, if one would like to walk around the very area where the foundations of the country’s history are found, the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño is an important stop. It is quite an experience to stand right on the same holy ground where the local faithful of old had performed their prayer rituals.

Old Cebu can be covered in about two hours, on foot. (It can take longer if one decides to linger a little longer at each stop.) It is such a compact area where economic and political power used to be concentrated in. Small as the area is, it wielded influence all the way to the faraway districts – which, well, is somehow still true to this day.

An umbrella would be good to have, to be ready for rain or shine, especially with the unpredictability of the weather lately. If sensitive skin is an issue, a tube of sunblock (preferably SPF 50) shall be made ready in one’s bag, just in case. And sunglasses, too, in case the day glares too much.

It is a walking tour, so comfortable walking shoes will help. And comfortable clothing, preferably of cotton fabric. And then one is ready to go.

Fort San Pedro.  This coral-stone structure located at the harbor area is a good starting point. Within the fort walls is a museum that keeps artifacts that detail the story of Cebu many centuries ago. There’s a small entrance fee.

Plaza Independencia. Adjacent to the old stone fort is a wide place that could be mistaken as the fort’s front yard. The plaza is the usual venue of huge public gatherings, and it has had seen quite a number of the city’s momentous events.

Magellan’s Cross. A short distance from the fort and the plaza is the Magellan’s Cross kiosk. A remnant of the original wooden cross that Magellan planted upon setting foot on Sugbo is said to be encased in the bigger cross that stands inside the kiosk today. Just across the kiosk is the Cebu City Hall building, which is also historical in itself.

Basilica Minore del Santo Niño. Just a few steps from the Magellan’s Cross is the basilica that houses the original image of the Holy Child that Magellan gave to the local queen Humamay, wife of the village chieftain Rajah Humabon. The Santo Niño is the center of the annual Sinulog celebration, touted to be the biggest fiesta of the Philippines.

Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral.  The cathedral is a mere three- to five-minute walk from the basilica. Not as old as the basilica but no doubt as historical, the cathedral has had witnessed the evolution of the Christian faith of the Cebuanos, from its pagan beginnings. The cathedral is a favorite wedding venue of the scions of the city’s rich-and-famous families.

Just across a narrow street is an old building that used to be the convent or residence of the priests of the cathedral. It has now been converted into a museum housing antique religious artifacts gathered parishes all over the province.

Plaza Hamabar. This small plaza in the vicinity of the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral supposedly marks the place in the old village where the residence of Rajah Humabon, also called Rajah Hamabar, used to be.

Colon Street. Very near the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral and considered as the oldest street in the country, its original stretch is from the corner of today’s D. Jakosalem Street northward to the corner of Mabini Street. It is said that Miguel Lopez de Legaspi constructed the street along the banks of the Parian Creek after seeing the flourishing trade-and-commerce activities of boat merchants at the creek.

Parian District. This small area where Colon Street is found was the center of the Cebu of old. Remnants of its old glory are still there, like the Casa Gorordo, the Yap-Sandiego House, and the Old Jesuit House or Museo Parian, which all display artifacts from Cebu’s past.

Another attraction at Parian, albeit new, is the Cebu Heritage Monument, located right where a small public plaza used to be. The monument is a tableau that depicts scenes from Cebu’s colorful history.

These are just the main points of interest. Various other interesting features dot the periphery of each, like restaurants that serve Cebuano food, souvenir shops, shopping malls etc. And this is talking of the Old Cebu area alone. Elsewhere close by, many interesting attractions await. (FREEMAN)