CEBU, Philippines – As a lifestyle writer, I get about 70 invitations a year. I would accept and participate in 50 of those; about 10 would be related to fine dining, which I look forward to because the foods and wines served in these affairs are usually extraordinary. It's often here where your favorite food writer get to encounter new food creations - because only seasoned chefs with exceptional skills are tasked to prepare it.
Last month, on October 1, a select group of friends and media were invited to a fine dining event called "Degustacion 9" at the Aziza restaurant, owned and operated by the mother-and- daughter tandem of Marlene and Aziza Mondoñeno. It took nearly a year to refurbish this portion of The Tinderbox, the deli, wine shop and restaurant complex located in Banilad, Cebu City.
Opening drink was The Beachhouse sparkling wine. I visited the kitchen and met Chef Marlene Ong, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley and her three assistants, James Pajardo, Elito Reyes and Van Ian Machitar. The dinner that night, Chef Marlene told us prior, would lean heavily on molecular cuisine which utilizes the sciences of chemistry and physics to restructure food and result in new innovative dishes.
The first course was an appetizer, Tuna Cone, made with Tuna Tartare, Crème Fraiche and Beet Spheres; followed by a soup, the White Gazpacho, cold and very refreshing. The soup uses Cucumber, Sultana Grapes, Fresh Dill, Sherry Wine and Almonds. Drink was Tahuna, Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2012, from New Zealand.
The third course consisted of Sweet Roasted Foie Gras, followed by the Caviar Flan and Sea Bass Explosion. These were paired with a red wine, Saint-Amour - Cuvée Ensorceleuse. The duck liver had several layers of flavors, starting with a rich taste, then enhanced by a Chocolate Sauce, and then cushioned by the sweetness of Raspberry Sauce and, finally, freshly grated almonds and Amaretto Jelly for a silky finish to the dish. Very interesting combinations of flavors!
The Sea Bass Explosion was my favorite, with the juices of the fish completely contained by searing, and the Granny Smith Apples, Buttered Spinach and Sweet Potato Gnocchi all contributing to the wonderful taste of the fish.
Sorbet was the Ginger Mojito Granita and the Ginger, Lime and Rum were encased in a spherical gum-like object, definitely in the realm of spherification of molecular cuisine. I was one of those lucky ones, excuse me, who had tasted this in Cebu eight years ago.
The main dish was the Beef Tenderloin and Choron Sauce. Main ingredients were Tenderloin, Choron Sauce, Glazed Carrot Buttons and Edamami Puree. Each ingredient contributed to one big bold delicious taste of the beef.
A pair of desserts, Triple Choco and the Vanilla, Coffee and Caramel Delight accompanied by the Beringer Sparkling White Wine Zinfandel were the finishing touches to this wonderful dinner.