CEBU, Philippines - Walking on Royal Grounds: Revisiting the City of Angels
Bangkok is a magnificent tapestry of the old and the new with the Chao Phraya River stringing together the remnants of its glorious past with the steady current of modern times. Personally, Bangkok has become a city I will never tire of visiting. Although my Thai vocabulary is limited to Sawadeeka and Kup-kun-ka (Thank you), the Thai's natural flair in making its visitors feel at home make it almost impossible to be lost in translation.
Bangkok's swing and flow lies far from the glitz of Siam Paragon or the lure of its sleazy girly boy shows for a real immersion into the Thai capital is a walk through the glittering milestones left by its rulers since the kingdom was founded. Although Bangkok may not have been the kingdom's first and only capital – with the ancient cities of Sukhothai and Ayuttahaya preceding it in importance and glory, Bangkok's palaces and temples are difficult to pass off. If anything, a visit to Bangkok would be terribly wanting without a pilgrimage to the ancient mega structures that mostly lie close to its commercial superhighway – the Chao Phraya river.
While nearly all of Bangkok's palaces and temples are spectacles in themselves, it makes perfect sense to truly savor the best ones rather than cover all of them and find yourself in a game of Temple Run. If and when you find yourself with only a day in Bangkok to be surrounded by its glittering temples, grand palaces, and golden buddhas, do not leave the City of Angels without entering the gates of the crown jewels of Thai architecture, history and art.
Wat Pho
Location : Maharat Road, Rattanakosin District
Opening Hours : 8AM to 5PM
Entrance Fee : 100 baht or Php 135
Dress code : No sleeveless tops and bottoms that cut
above the knees.
It's official name is Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram Ratchaworamahawihan but people – the Thai included – call it Wat Pho for short. This temple is known for two things: the 160-foot giant reclining Buddha nestled in years of nirvana in its northern walled compound and authentic Thai massage that you can learn and enjoy within these sacred grounds. Wat Pho, after all is the birth place of Thai massage. Beyond its temple grounds are sprinklings of almost a hundred chedis encrusted with an intricate ceramic mosaic. 71 smaller chedis contain the ashes of the Thai royal family while the larger 21 chedis each share the ashes of Buddha. The main temple rises above the other structures through a marble platform surrounded by mythical lions while the exterior balustrade is a giant story board depicting the Ramakien epic. Being the oldest and the largest among all the wats (temples) in Bangkok, Wat Pho is a destination that should never be missed.
The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew
Location : Na Phralan, Phra Nakon, Rattanakosin District
Opening Hours : 8:30AM to 3:30PM
Entrance Fee : 400 baht or Php 540 (covers Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew)
Dress code : No sleeveless tops and bottoms that cut above the knees.
Must-see in the temple/palace complex: Queen Sirikit Textile Museum
Within the vicinity: National Museum
The Grand Palace has been the official residence of Thai royalty since 1782. This vast complex of buildings lying near the Chao Phraya River – right at the heart of Bangkok is a treasure trove of the best of Siamese art. Its 200-year history is responsible for its eclectic mix of color and mythical elements making it one of the most beautiful and majestic palace complexes of its time. The Grand Palace is a collection of courtyards, pavilions, gardens, and temples with the Temple of the Emerald Buddha as one of its most prominent quarters. At best the Grand Palace is a labyrinth of golden and embellished chedis and pavilions heavily guarded by garudas and winged mythical creatures making this a living, breathing museum.
Wat Arun
Location : Opposite side of the
Chao Phraya River
Opening Hours : 8AM - 5:30PM
Entrance Fee : 50 baht or Php 67.50
Dress code : No sleeveless tops and
bottoms that cut
above the knees.
Although known as the Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun or Wat Chaeng as it is more popularly known among the Thai is as stunning a sight to behold at sunset as it is at sunrise. The story behind Wat Arun is an epic one. After fighting his way through a swarm of Burmese warriors in Ayutthaya, King Taksin made to Wat Arun just as the dawn was breaking. He eventually renamed the wat situated at the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya as Wat Chaeng and made it into the central temple during his reign. Wat Arun may literally be the stairway to heaven. Its central prang or spire reaches a height of 70 meters while the four minor prangs surrounding it are a mere 30-35 meters tall. Each of the prangs is painstakingly embellished with colored glass and Chinese porcelain making it one of the most beautiful temples in Thailand. Make it all the way up the steep stairway and catch a glimpse of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace on the other side of the riverbank, as well as the Chao Phraya River snaking its way to Ayutthaya and the neighboring cities.
Wat Intharawihan
Location : 114 Wisut Kasat Road, Banglampu,
Rattanakosin District
Opening Hours : 8:30AM - 8:00PM
Entrance Fee : Free
Dress code : None
It took 60 years to build and tons of 24-carat gold to cover it. The standing Buddha at Wat Intharawihan is the largest of its kind and perhaps one of the most iconic. This wat is a quick visit as the focal point will be the 32-meter tall standing Buddha which was built towards the end of the Ayutthaya period. The surrounding temple area is kept from the outside world by walls sporting elevated murals. Watch the lavishly gilded window shutters on the surrounding temple structures glitter furiously beneath the sunshine. Take a quick trip to the small museum at Wat Intharawihan for a glimpse at old Buddha images kept for all to marvel.