Chinese cooking

CEBU, Philippines - Even if I had a Filipina mother, I grew up eating Chinese dishes as my mother received cooking instructions from the lotus-footed aunts of my father. Then, having married into a pure Chinese family, I had a deeper exposure to an authentic Chinese kitchen through my mother-in-law, Lu Diu Eng, who was a great cook. She would putter around the kitchen, preparing the important dishes of a family meal, while endlessly talking to me in pure Chinese. (That was how I honed my Chinese!) I would ask why that thing must go into the concoction, and she would explain its specific “role” in the dish.

One thing that stands out to me is the healthy way the Chinese treat food, dividing them into “hot” or “diat” and “cheng” or “cool.” This way, one is aware of what goes into one’s mouth, whether it will balance the “chi” in one’s body. Everything is how we now view as “organic” — fresh from the garden, including the “ku tsai” (potted) or chives that color the oyster omelet. Hence, in Ancient China, an herbalist was part of the royal kitchen staff, also in rich people’s homes. The Chinese believe that herbal potency is best and readily absorbed into the human system when taken along with fortifying meats and veggies.

That’s why, a new mother, soon after delivery of her baby, will take chicken, pidgeon or freshly caught fish fried in sesame oil – sesame oil being “diat.” And when I was feverish (“diat”), Mama Diu Eng would let me take a cool concoction of white fungus stewed in rock sugar water (“cheng”). Then, I would be given fresh fruits – pear, apple, papaya or pomelo (cool); but never, watermelon, mango, pineapple or durian (hot).

No wonder the large number of octogenarians among the Chinese elders – even those who reach the 100 mark! Eating sensibly and eating well are the secrets to longevity.

Let me share with you a couple of herbal dishes I have come to be familiar with through the years:

Black chicken with red dates

 (Black chicken or “diong koi” stew is an ancient dish served to women after childbirth, to restore vitality and replenish blood loss. It is however a tonic for everyone, as well. This recipe adds red dates and dried longan to bolster the blood replenishing properties of the black chicken.  The sesame oil – “diat” – adds nutritional value to the dish.)

1 black chicken or 4 black chicken legs

10 pcs dried longans, rinsed

6 pitted red dates, rinsed

2 spring onions, cut lengthwise

1 stalk celery, cut lengthwise

6 slices ginger root

1 tbsp coriander leaves, to garnish

Marinade

5 tbsp rice wine

2 tsp White Horse or Camel soy sauce

3 tbsp sesame oil

1 tsp salt

2 tsp sugar

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1) Wash and clean the chicken, then cut into serving pieces.

2) Mix all marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl.  Mix well.  Add chicken pieces until well coated.  Arrange herbs on top of the chicken pieces. Put celery, onion and ginger in between the herbs.  Cover the bowl well with aluminum foil and wait to marinate for 30 minutes.  Place the bowl in a steamer or wok and steam for 1 hour. Remove from heat and open the foil cover. Sprinkle the chopped coriander over the dish and serve immediately.

Serves 4

(If black chicken is not available, substitute with “manok bisaya” or free range chicken)

Stewed chicken with ginseng & red dates

(The ginseng has 2 properties: hot & cool.  This recipe uses the fine rootlets that grow from the main root – similar medicinal properties but these are slightly cooling, good for Philippine weather. Red dates are good for the spleen and the stomach, improving digestion. Red dates also have a calming effect.)

1 whole chicken or 4 chicken legs

10 gms (1/3 oz) ginseng rootlets, rinsed

5 pcs. red dates, pitted and rinsed

2 slices ginger root

1 ½ liters (6 cups) water

1 tsp salt, to taste

1. Wash and clean the chicken. (If using whole chicken, then keep it whole.) For chicken legs, cut in half.  Poach chicken in a pot of boiling water for 30 seconds, remove and drain. OR, you can scald the chicken with boiling water.

2. In a large bowl, put the chicken together with the rest of the ingredients – except the salt. Steam in a steamer or place in a covered wok over boiling water. For 2 hours, constantly replenishing the water in the steamer or wok, as needed.

3. Remove from heat, stir in the salt and serve immediately.

Serves 4 – 6 (FREEMAN)