Casa Amaparito is the latest restaurant to join the ever expanding world of Culinaria Cebu, the centerpiece of what this city can do to welcome its ever increasing numbers of guests and residents. It can be found where the old Pino restaurant was located, at Wilson Street Lahug (email: www.casaamparito.com, phones 505-4840, 231-3101) and is now managed by a triumvirate of personalities with Marina Codina as General Manager, Executive Chef Dino Guingona and Proprietress Dr. Amparito Llamas-Lhuillier.
In the late 80s, there used to be a restaurant called Amparito's Continental Cuisine along Mango Avenue owned by the Lhuillier family and that place was the "in" restaurant at that time for fine dining and many patrons do remember the wonderful memories evoked by that place. These customers now have children and some even have grandchildren; they have grown up and these are some of the new breed of customers that hopefully will patronize this restaurant.
Your favorite food columnist was able to join both the Media Launch and the Grand Launch of Casa Amaparito. We had about 14 dishes to try during the media launch and I will feature today some of the dishes that I have tasted on both occasions.
Top in the list is the Laing in Phyllo with spicy laing dip. A specialty from Bicol, it is made of gabi or taro leaves which are dried first before cooking. Several species of gabi in Cebu however contain high amounts of calcium oxalates which can cause itchiness or "katol" hence the gabi have to be sources elsewhere. Wrapping the leaves in phyllo provides the crunchiness and is a fresh approach to serving the dish.
The Bouillabaisse Antibes was delicious and my beloved readers know the humble origins of this soup in Marseille. Those fishes like the rascasse (Scorpaena scrofa), which could not be sold in the market became the meal for fishermen. Later, some enterprising businessman added olive oil and saffron and the bouillabaisse was born. Paired with the rouille, a sauce made with olive oil, breadcrumbs and saffron, this is going to be a crowd favorite.
We had some exotic dishes like the Balut ala Pobre, Grilled Marinated Ostrich and even a Roulade of Crocodile Tenderloin to provide alternative dining experience to those who want to try these dishes in an environment that will pass stringent food hygiene standards. This restaurant also offers Filipino favorites like Boneless Crispy Pata, Casa Amparito Seafood Kilawin and the Crispy Pork Binagoongan & Grilled Eggplant. By some chemistry, the crispy pork, flavored with salted shrimp paste and paired with grilled eggplant came to taste exceeding well.
To end a wonderful meal, patrons to Casa Amaparito should remember a rather sinful dessert offering, the Turon Halo-Halo in Young Coconut with Ube Ice Cream. docmlhuillier@yahoo.com