Ride 101
For motorheads, at one time in our lives have we been lured by the excitement of being on two wheels–feeling free carving through some twisty mountain roads and enjoying the wind on our faces. That's how an ideal motorcycle experience is although here in the Philippines, it's that and more. Being on two wheels in our country is becoming a necessity due to traffic and the high maintenance cost of four-wheeled vehicles. The introduction of cost efficient mopeds and scooters has also lured cost-conscious motorist to mopeds. These small bikes actually costs less and is more convenient than taking public transportation. This is why we have seen the moped and scooter numbers grow immensely in the past few years.
Although much of the riding fundamentals remain the same, riding and maneuvering these small bikes tend to create some bad habits especially when you plan to switch into the bigger performance bikes later on. Here are some basic tips and observations that I have picked up especially when coming from a moped or scooter to a bigger standard bike.
Be one with the bike – As cliche as it sounds, this helps a lot in your riding if taken both figuratively and literally. But allow me to expound more on the literal sense of the phrase, since this is one of the most common mistakes when jumping from a moped or scooter to a standard bike. In a moped/scooter, the tank is either under the seat or under the handlebars (example Kawasaki ZX130), this leaves an empty space between your legs which you can use to store stuff like groceries or plastic bags. Although this is a useful feature in a moped/scooter, this leads rider to have a habit of being connected to the bike only through the handlebars and footpegs. This won't matter much on a light moped or scooter but if you move up to the heavier and bigger displacement bikes, this is going to make a lot of difference on how the bike behaves under braking and cornering. If you ask experienced riders, they will be the first to tell you to use your thighs and knees to hold onto the tank to keep yourself stable on the bike. This will in turn free your arms and keep them loosely holding the handlebars. One good gauge if you are doing it correctly is to sit on your bike, get into your cornering position, then take your hands off the handlebars… if you don't fall off… you are doing it right. Same goes when "hanging off" or "dragging a knee" on cornering. Always keep at least one knee tightly connected to the tank. I have seen lots of beginner bikers "hanging off" while being totally disconnected from their bikes. Aside from looking awkward, this also plays havoc on the bike's balance during cornering. Don't hang off too far, one butt cheek out of the seat is enough. It is also worth to mention that you should get into your turning position BEFORE you actually turn in, as shifting your weight mid corner can upset the balance of the bike.
Countersteer … NOT "Bodysteer" – On smaller bikes, the rider's weight is almost the same as that of the bike, sometimes even heavier, so "bodysteer" will seem to work even though it won't get you through the twisties. This is also a very slow way to get your bike to turn. Try this on a heavier bike and you will notice that "bodysteering" will have little or no effect at all. However, countersteering–meaning you turn the handlebar left to lean the bike right and vice versa–has an instantaneous effect on the lean angle, and the result is quick and precise steering. This is how you get a heavy bike to magically lean without breaking a sweat. One way to easily remember this is to push the handlebar left to lean left and push the handlebar right to lean right. Now you might say that "hanging off" is a form of "bodysteering". I would have to disagree and say that "hanging off" is not a way to steer the bike. It, rather, is a way to lessen the lean angle in a turn. Less lean angle means more throttle, and more throttle means more speed.
Throttle control – This might not be a big deal on smaller displacement bikes where you can just pin open the throttle and don't feel a thing. However, on bigger ones this could cause high sides (where the rear slides and snaps back into grip sending you flying off) and wheelies (where if not executed properly could also cause you to crash). But the most profound effect of throttle control would be during cornering. As Keith Code in his book Twist of The Wrist put it "Once the throttle is cracked on, it is rolled on evenly, smoothly, and consistently throughout the remainder of the turn." This will send more weight to the rear wheels than the front wheels which makes the bike more stable throughout the turn. This is one reason the rear wheels are bigger than the front wheels. If you roll on too slowly, the bike will feel sluggish and squiggly, and if you roll on too fast, you might end up in a high side crash. Always remember to roll on the throttle only AFTER turning in.
To be noticed, use your horn, not your exhaust sound – This is more of a safety concern. Bikes (even the larger ones) are pretty small when you are in a jungle of cars and trucks. So when you want to be noticed by a motorist it is advisable to use your horn as it is pointed straight forward and can be heard clearly. The exhaust, even if modified to be loud, is still pointed backwards. When you are inside a car, where it is almost soundproof and has the stereo on, the horn can be heard more clearly than your exhaust. It is also easier to press the horn button than to clutch-in-then-roll-on-throttle-then-wait-for-rpm-to-drop-then-clutch-out. Turning on your headlights during daytime is also a good way to stay visible.
Leave the EGO at home – This one is probably one of the hardest thing to do for most riders that are new to performance bikes. We usually think that since we are on a performance bike we should be the fastest thing out there on the road and any attempt by a smaller bike at overtaking us would be tantamount to a race challenge. Well... WRONG! Not everybody is out there to race you. Remember that all motorists have the same right to be on the road as you. Having a bigger displacement bike doesn't automatically make you superior over smaller displacement ones. That sort of attitude is the thing that starts road rage and accidents. Remember the red Eon thing that went viral on the news and social media? Yeah, we don't want that. So check that ego when you go riding.
These are just some basic tips on how to ride a performance bike. If you want to seriously improve your riding skills, I would suggest for you to get a riding instructor to coach/teach you. We usually don't see what we are doing wrong unless somebody else points it out for us. Most of all, the way you control your ride and the level of confidence you have in handling your bike will be directly proportional to the amount of fun you will have in riding it. So, make sure to upgrade both your skill and confidence so you will have a grand time exploring the world on two wheels!
- Latest
