Cannes diaries

One of the most extravagant cities in the French Riviera, or what is aptly called Cote d’Azur, Cannes is the very definition of chic opulence — a true playground of the rich and famous made even more popular by the annual “Festival de Cannes” which is the world’s most prestigious film festival. Twelve days of auteur world cinema that highlights a filmmaker’s creativity, passion and beliefs, wherein the city of Cannes is transformed into a mecca of glitz and glamour, full of paparazzi and the movie stars they chase. Even fans (like myself) easily spotted celebrities, from James Franco to Zoe Saldana at the Majestic, as well as Zhang Zi Yi walking along the plage with her huge entourage of bodyguards. I also spotted Eva Longoria while having dinner at Le Palme d’Or and Marion Cottilard dancing to Daft Punk’s Get Lucky at Club Albane. Even elevators become a celebrity hangout as I shared a ride on the lift with socialite Paris Hilton and her boyfriend at the Carlton, while my friend got stuck in the JW Marriott elevator with Christian Louboutin! Rubbing elbows with celebs as you cruise along the Croissette was a daily routine but I never got tired of spotting them; even my husband who is never starstruck, was in awe as he met film producing god Harvey Weinstein!

Of course to truly have a feel of the Festival de Cannes one must attend a red carpet premiere which was truly awesome! To be able to watch the movies with the actors themselves as they attended the screenings and seeing them get emotional and overwhelmed by the applause of the audience was definitely a sight — Berenice Bejo (Festival de Cannes winner of the Best Actress award) and her cast mates were in tears after watching their movie, Le Passé. Robin Wright had a proud moment as her movie, The Congress, opened for the Director’s Fortnight while Michael Cera and Juno Temple humbly greeted their audience after the screening of their film, Magic Magic. 

The Festival de Cannes is definitely an international event wherein this year they paid homage to India, which is celebrating 100 years of cinema. So many countries participated in Cannes including the Philippines which had three premieres — Death March by Adolf Alix Jr., Norte, Hangganan ng Kasaysayan by Lav Diaz, and of course On the Job by Erik Matti that was co-produced by Star Cinema, Reality Entertainment, and my husband, Leo Po. Of course my proudest moment was attending the premiere of On the Job with the producers as well as some of its stars such as Joel Torre, Piolo Pascual, Gerald Anderson and Rayver Cruz. It was amazing how the theater was full — not only Filipinos but many other nationalities as well. The response to the screening was overwhelmingly positive that there was a two-minute standing ovation for direk Erik and the stars wherein even after the premiere, so many people would just randomly approach the stars congratulating them on the movie and their performance, it was truly a proud Pinoy moment! It was also great to get together with the other Filipino delegates in a party hosted by Cannes resident, Tetta Agustin and her husband, Christian Baverey as they popped the champagne for 100 guests and prepared a 20-course dinner in their beautiful villa.

Eating in Cannes is a whole other story as each meal was quite special, from Michelin-starred dining options to French home cooking that would satisfy any foodie soul. Lunching in nearby Nice, Cap d’Antibes and Monaco is also highly recommended — you can either hire a driver or take a train and cruise along the stunning coastline of the French Riviera. I spent 10 days eating my way through Cannes, discovering the local fare and trying to avoid the tourist traps. From high to low, eating establishments celebrate French culinary tradition, based on the local bounty — much of it from the sea.

Here is a list of restaurants to fortify one’s appetite, a guide to the must-visits and maybe a few restaurants to avoid.

Restaurant B.O. (Five Hotel and Spa, 1 rue Notre Dame, Cannes)

If there’s any restaurant to go to during the film festival, this is the place! Owned by French director Luc Besson, every year B.O. is only open during the Festival de Cannes — it’s something of a “pop up” restaurant that is frequented by celebrities or film industry people. Every year it changes venue and this year it parked at the rooftop of the newest and hottest boutique hotel in Cannes. Food was surprisingly very good — the Burrata salad was served with green tomatoes, which is my new fave thing. There’s something about the slightly sour green tomatoes, and the creamy Burrata that made me devour that dish. I also enjoyed my roasted pata negra with au jus — it was extremely tender and super moist, a simple dish that hit the spot!

Astoux et Cie Brun (27 rue Felix Faure, Cannes)

The place to go for fresh seafood! An overabundance of fresh oysters, mussels, shrimp, clams and snails — order a platter of their fruit de mer or sample their numerous kinds of oysters, from fines des claires to special oysters from Normandy and Ireland. I personally prefer medium Normandy oysters — they are so sweet that all you need was a squeeze of lemon just to highlight their freshness.

Villa Archange (15 bis Rue Notre Dame des Anges, Le Cannet)

A two-star Michelin restaurant 10 minutes away from the center of Cannes that is definitely worth the trek. Chef Bruno Oger was once an executive chef at the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok and even considered accepting a job in one of the top hotels in Manila. After three years in Asia, he decided to go back to his home country and became well known as the executive chef at The Majestic Hotel until he opened Villa Archange in 2010. To have a complete experience of chef Bruno’s food philosophy, I recommend his eight-course degustation wherein he takes you through a gastronomic journey. A well-thought–out menu that begins with several amuse bouches, my fave being the spider crab with fish gelee topped with caviar as well as the kropek with whipped ginger cream dip. The first course was somewhat delicate — Brittany Lobster “Aquarium” with calamari cooked in tomato juice and drizzled with lobster oil — a refreshing starter that paved the way for other incredible dishes. Another highlight is the 24-Hour Veal Knuckle with smoked butter — it had the perfect amount of fat that created this melt-in-your-mouth experience.  

L’Antidote (60, Boulevard d’Alsace, Cannes)

I love that this restaurant is somewhat separated from the hustle and bustle of Cannes. Located behind the busy city center of Cannes, chef Christophe Ferre is able to transform an old home into a unique bistro. With its charming blue windows and lavender lined garden, L’Antidote creates a homey atmosphere. You can choose from a two-course up to a five-course meal depending on your appetite plus prices are way below your typical Cannes restaurant due to its location. I loved their lobster salad — I don’t usually eat lobster but this was really tender and quite tasty due to the lobster broth that was turned into a creamy butter sauce. Could not get enough of the filet mignon with foie gras as well and their apple tart is the best, buttery with a super light crust served with salted caramel sauce and caramel ice cream.

Relais des Semailles (9 rue St. Antoine, Cannes)

We were looking for a quick meal before one of the screenings and chanced upon this small restaurant. I was drawn by its cozy interiors and this amazing scent of tarragon butter that came through their window. Price is a bit steep but that’s to be expected since its located at Rue Saint Antoine which is a small uphill street filled with restaurants and charming touristy stores. I had a tender thick-cut veal chop, that was simply pan seared to medium and finished off with tarragon butter — simple yet satisfying.

La Mere Besson (13 rue des Freres-Pradignac, Cannes)

You truly feel like you are in Mama Mere’s kitchen while eating in this popular establishment. Spanning eight decades of Provencal cooking, what you’ll get is pure home-style cooking. I am a fan of their soup de poisson, a broth you’d want to swim in! Thinking about that hot, slightly thick broth with the perfect texture of the remnants of the fish topped with grated Gruyere is making my stomach growl, served with toast and homemade garlicky rouille — a match made in heaven!

L’Affable (5 rue Lafontaine, La Croisette, Cannes)

A French bistro that has a modern take on French classics by integrating Mediterranean flavors as well as experimenting with some Asian ingredients — in a really smart way. Chef Battaglia has been a chef for 30 years and has combined his experience in the classics with his new outlook on food around the world. It’s always very busy not only because of the yummy food but for the reasonable prices that one would not find in the center of Cannes. This is the place to order escargots, as well as other French classics like soufflé and beef tartare!

Laduree (79 rue d’Antibes, Cannes)

There’s just something about seeing those small round pastel-colored macarons that makes me giddy and excited, like a little girl in a candy store! Made every morning in Laduree’s laboratories — crisp macaron shells on the outside, creamy and light ganache filling in the middle, just how a perfect macaron should be. Love their other pastries as well; try the mascarpone tart with fresh strawberries as well as the raspberry mille feuille.

Les Canailles (12 rue Jean Daumas, Cannes)

This charming bistro with modern interiors is a favorite local eatery. The menu written on the blackboard gives it a rustic feel and changes regularly depending on the availability of ingredients. Traditional Provencal cooking with huge servings, I definitely would go back here especially for the slow-roasted short ribs served with stuffed ravioli, as well as the seared foie gras with potatoes similar to a rosti.

Terres de Truffes (11, rue St. Francois de Paule, Nice)

Truffle heaven! Their whole menu has truffle, from starters all the way to dessert! You can even choose what kind you prefer; of course the price varies but you will leave the bistro with useful truffle education. Order the sautéed seasonal mushrooms, pan-fried foie gras, and white truffle in a puff pastry — it will knock your socks off! As well as the 11-hour cooked confit of lamb with shaved black truffle and the crème brulee with caramel truffle sauce.

Le Cesar (1035, Chemin de la Garoupe, Cap d’Antibes)

You will get an amazing view of the water as well as super-fresh seafood. Their bouillabaisse is the best and a meal in itself! They also have fresh salt-baked branzino that was perfectly cooked. Best to leave room for dessert for their profiteroles are to die for — a light pâté choux with fresh vanilla ice cream, rich melted chocolate and fresh whipped cream, topped with crushed pistachios.

Joel Robuchon (Hotel Metropole, 4 Avenue de la Madone, Monaco)

I always come out satisfied when dining at any of his restaurants. Staff is always so warm and friendly, service is always top-notch, and the food is just the very definition of quality! We were lucky to have dined at Robuchon during the Grand Prix, although they had a prix fixe menu, the selection was big enough and had a lot of varieties. The bread trolley was divine, especially with the impressive tower of butter that is freshly made. My husband Leo loved his octopus carpaccio drizzled with lime oil, as well as the sautéed calf sweetbreads and kidney. I was in awe of their open kitchen while my husband enjoyed himself on the balcony overlooking the track and had a chance to watch the race.

Le Palme d’Or (Hotel Martinez, 73 Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes)

This restaurant needs to have their two Michelin stars revoked or maybe one star at least! It was a disappointment especially when I found several pieces of fish bone in my filet, which in Top Chef world would be cause for elimination. The amuse bouche looked better than it tasted. Flavors were mediocre and dishes sounded better on the menu than on my palate. My only consolation was Eva Longoria was at the table beside us — at least my celebrity appetite was somewhat satisfied.

Mantel (22, rue St. Antoine, Cannes)

Highly recommended by locals but maybe had an “off” day when we went. Food was forgettable except for my fried zucchini flower salad that I enjoyed — it had a light batter that kept the zucchini flower crunchy. Menu changes all the time, so maybe we ate on the wrong day? Located along Rue Saint Antoine so expect the price to be a bit steep.