A culinary tribute

MANILA, Philippines - Benitez family members agree on one thing: Helena Z. Benitez is a foodie. 

From her earliest years of traveling with her father, the late Dean Conrado Benitez, through her illustrious career as president of the Philippine Women’s University (founded by her mother, Francisca Tirona Benitez) and later as a national leader, Benitez developed a fine sensibility combining a deeply rooted Philippine identity with an international flair that made her truly world class.

To celebrate her 100th birthday this June, the Benitez family is working with renowned food historian and restaurateur Amy Besa to present “A Culinary Tribute to Tita Helen.” Amy is curating a menu that includes roast chicken stuffed with karimbuaya (courtesy of Tina Papillon of Pamora Farm in Abra), pancit pusit developed by Ige Ramos with Sonny Lua of Asiong’s in Cavite City and assorted sawsawan (dipping sauces) made by Casa San Pablo from fruit trees originally introduced to Laguna by the Alcantara family. 

Vinya Alcantara recounted a story to daughter-in-law An Mercado-Alcantara, recalling her days as an intern at PWU: “Mrs. Benitez (fondly called Mama B) used to invite us to Mira Nila (the Benitez home in Quezon City) for parties with VIPs. We used to giggle at how frugal the Benitezes were for serving us boiled peanuts, dilis and burong mangga (preserved mango). It was only when I grew up that I realized they were really elevating native delicacies and were so ahead of their time.”

“A Culinary Tribute to Tita Helen” features food from Cavite and Laguna (her home provinces) as well as culinary creations prepared especially for her centenary celebration at Mira Nila.

Chef Romy Dorotan of Purple Yam Brooklyn and Chef Joseph Galvez of soon to open Purple Yam Malate are preparing a grilled fish with a burnt coconut cream sauce (former governor Al Tillah is providing fish from Mindanao).  Quesong puti will be made by the Sico kitchen in Dasmariñas, Cavite and Heny Sison and Queenie Savellano are providing freshly made Vigan empanadas (meat pies). A slow cooked ginataang hipon is Chef Theodore Day Salonga of Sta. Cruz, Laguna’s offering. Crackers and pan de sal are from Staple and Perk Bakery’s Aldrin Lim, who was trained in France.

 Ginny Roces de Guzman of Gustare is creating a multi-flavored 4-foot cake tapestry designed to honor Tita Helen. Sebastian’s Ian Carandang is introducing two new ice cream flavors: Davao chocolate and buco strings. Mario’s QC is preparing paella and cochinillo for their Tita Helen.

Book ending the menu are drinks from Olive Limpe-Aw including calamansi vodka and chocolate and mango liqueurs.   

Amy Besa calls Tita Helen an “icon and an inspiration” and remembers that she is one of the reasons Filipino women have so much going for them.

Amy’s “Ang Sariling Atin” Culinary Heritage Institute (ASA) advocates using fresh produce and educating people about traditional cooking methods and will soon partner with PWU on research projects about Filipino flavors.