Escape to Batanes

Raffle contests bring out the cynic in me. Over the years, my family has easily filled out hundreds of raffle stubs, but the greatest prize we’ve ever won was a rocking horse.

Fortunately, not all families share our luck with raffles. Roddy Abaya, wife Isca, eight-year-old Camille and four-year-old Lucas won Sentro 1771 and the Dept. of Tourism’s Great Xcapes raffle promo the first time they dined at the Greenbelt restaurant.

The two-hour flight on the 40-seater Asian Spirit airplane was a breeze for the young brood. Batanes proved to be like no other destination this family had ever been to. It is the smallest and northernmost island in the Philippines, 860 kilometers north of Manila, while only 190 kilometers south of Taiwan. Comprised of three major islands and seven islets, it is collectively divided into six municipalities.

Much of the population of roughly 16,000 inhabitants reside on Batan Island. Basco, the capital, is where the plane from Manila lands twice a week. Hence only on Wednesdays and Saturdays does the island get its supply of newspapers and handful of wide-eyed tourists. Occasionally, smaller planes fly to and from Laoag and Tuguegarao.

The looming presence of Mount Iraya, a volcano 1,008 meters above sea level, is hard to ignore. Like no other island in the country, Batanes beautifully marries the sea and the mountains in numerous spectacular views. Being the last weather station in the north, it has become synonymous with typhoons and from July to February, the likelihood of getting stranded on the island is higher. But don’t be fooled by the urban legends of extreme weather: Batanes only averages eight typhoons in a year. Throughout the year, the climate is generally cool and quite windy.

The family’s adventure begins with a tour of the main island of Batan. We start at Sto. Domingo Cathedral, an 18th century church erected by the early Dominican missionaries in Basco. Driving to higher elevation in Naidi Hills takes our breath away literally and figuratively. The panoramic view of endless hills covered in a fine carpet of green grass stretching as far as the eye can see was simply over-whelming. Driving in the governor’s van with a sunroof became the perfect way to soak in Montes Range of more amazing views of hills, cows and goats lazily grazing.

Climbing Radar Tucon’s makeshift steps was quite difficult for the kids, but Roddy was rewarded with the supreme vantage point of the island. Continuing with our tour, our guide Chico Domingo pointed out an idjang, one of the island’s several pre-Hispanic fortresses used by ancient Ivatans as a look-out point. Valugan Bay’s countless rocks thrilled Lucas, their perfectly oblong shape reminding him of dinosaur eggs. The bay lent itself to more magical photo opportunities for the charming family.

After a picnic lunch under the coconut trees by the sea, the family walked down the steep steps to soak up the breeze from Chawa View Deck, with the fierce waves of the South China Sea crashing on the huge black boulders. The grandeur of standing at the edge of land watching fishermen catch anchovies was a stark reminder of how miniscule we all are in the greater scheme of things.

The early morning flight took its toll and the two youngsters napped in the van, missing out on the rolling grazing fields aptly christened Marlboro Country. We expected herds of horses and perhaps a cowboy or two, but there were only a few horses and not a single cowboy in sight. Locals call this communal pasture land Racu a Payaman.

The drive to Itbud overlooking the Pacific Ocean was a zigzagging highway. Splashing waves against boulders and miniature waterfalls on flat rocks made for interesting detail against the deep blue ocean.

Although the sea brings endless beauty, it has also brought much destruction. Several old stone houses in Songsong were destroyed by a tidal wave several decades ago. The Ivatans have mastered building sturdy stone houses with meter thick walls and thatched roofs made with several layers of dried vuchid or cogon leaves. The abandoned Song-song ruins have become interesting structures visited by tourists.

But most visited and perhaps most photographed is Vakay ni Dakay built in 1877. While the old Dakay Jose Estrella has long passed away, his daughter Florestida, now 79, still resides in the house. She invited us in and told us how the roof made of one-foot thick layers of leaves is changed every 20 years, and how doors are never closed in Ivatan homes. The Ivatans, we learn from Chico, use wood from the breadfruit tree which is not prone to termite infestation.

We reached Batanes Resort in time for sunset. With feet up and eyes awaiting the sky’s dramatic transformation, we witnessed nothing short of glorious moments with the rocks, sea, mountains, and a few cows as witness.

To truly know this tiny province surrounded by water, one must conquer the sea. With this mindset, the family was up before sunrise for the passage from Batan island to the southern island of Sabtang. The waves seemed humongous to these urbanites, and while Lucas stared in awe at the gigantic waves, Camille closed her eyes and sought comfort in her brave little brother’s arms. Ivatans build their tataya boats with a deep hollow base to withstand the feisty waves. Surviving the rough sea, we celebrated with breakfast eaten from leaves of the kabaya or breadfruit tree.

The highlight of the day was swimming at Nakabuwan, a few kilometers away from the town center where the sand is a fine soft beige and the waters crystal clear. But the best feature was a rock formation that created a natural stone tunnel, great for hide-and-seek or unique photographs. Having the entire beach to ourselves was simply heaven.

But Sabtang had more to offer. Hesitantly, we boarded the jeepney to see the other sights. Savidug had a street of old houses still intact and inhabited. A lazy picnic lunch in a kiosk in Chavayan set the tone for the relaxed afternoon. After a nap we leisurely explored the row of houses built along a cobblestone pavement, where hardworking women conversed with us as they grated root crops into fine flour.

By late afternoon, we decided to pitch our tents at our chosen campsite back in Nakabuwan beach. Our Batanes experience was complete upon seeing an Ivatan woman wearing a vacul, headgear made from vuyavoy leaves that serves as protection from rain, wind, and sun.

Surpassing the thrills of watching the reality TV show Survivor is living the adventure. We pitched our tents and gathered wood for our bonfire. The expertise of our DOT companion, Fanibeth, in building a fire allowed us to have a warm toasty flame before the sun set. There was nothing like an early dinner by the bonfire, followed by ghost stories. Three of us seized the opportunity to sleep under the stars. One with the lullaby of the crashing waves, the cold sea breeze, and the bright moonlight, sleeping outdoors by the rock formation seemed almost surreal.

Before the sun could even rise, the tents were neatly packed. We were determined to catch the six a.m. boat ride to capitalize on the still calm seas to take us back to Batan Island.

The rest of the day was spent experiencing more of the island. Ivana Church was a commanding fortress structure looking out to the sea. Nearby is Honesty Coffee Shop, a not for profit store without any person tending to it. A simple rule applies: Get what you wish and pay for it by dropping your payment in the box. If you need change, simply come back for it at another time. This novel set-up is perhaps only possible in Batanes, where crime is virtually unheard of.

A trip to the Racuaydi old settlement became an encounter with archeological ruins from pre-colonial times. Several meters further is the Fountain of Youth, where the waters are reputed to have healing properties.

As Saturday arrived, the airport was once again a-buzz with anticipation for the plane from Manila. But for this group of lucky visitors, the mood became sentimental: No doubt the family has forged a bond with the island. Witnessing how precious what the Ivatans have in Batanes, the wise and culturally sensitive couple wonders whether tourism is needed in this island. The Ivatans are doing well on their own minus the trappings of modern urban society.

Filled with new learning, fresh insights, dozens of photos, and cherished memories, the Abaya’s return to Manila having won much more than just a great escape.