Shanghai on High

MOUNTING A SOLO country exhibition is no easy feat and calls for hard work–lots of it. The polished settings and shows will make one proud to be Pinoy, but it is probably what happens behind the scenes that best demonstrates Filipino ingenuity, creativity and flexibility.

The Philippines and China have a shared experience that dates back to pre-historic times when the people of mainland Asia migrated to Southeast Asia, including parts of the Philippines. The arrival of the first Chinese shipping vessel in Philippine waters during the Tang Dynasty (A.D. 618-907) saw the beginning of trade relations between the two countries, and this partnership built on barter and cultural exchanges has endured through the centuries. To this day, Chinese presence in the country is very strong and, through the years, their customs have become part of Filipino life. There is a notable attraction and taste for things Chinese among many Filipinos–we eat their food (sweet sour pork, anyone?), we wear their clothes (who doesn’t own a cheongsam-inspired garment?) and we decorate our homes with their furniture and furnishings (is that a cinnabar box on your Ming Dynasty coffee table?).

Four days within the last week of March, from the 27th to the 30th, mark a period of a renewal of ties with our Chinese brothers. About a year in the making, Ties That Bind: A Philippine Solo Exhibition in Shanghai is a landmark event that seeks to continue and strengthen the kinship between the Philippines and China. The exhibit will feature garments; jewelry and fashion accessories; gifts and houseware; holiday décor; home furnishings; food and beverages; design services in architecture, interiors, landscaping and fashion; industrial goods and automotive parts; and IT and IT-enabled services.

One of the highlights of the exhibition will be the Philippine Amusement and Gaming Corporation (PAGCOR)-sponsored Manila Wear Gala Fashion Show on the first day of the event. A joint undertaking of the Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions (CITEM) and the Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines (FDCP), Manila Wear is the country’s brand of tropical wear fit for summer settings anywhere in the world. It was conceived and initially launched in 1997 and it is the epitome of modern Filipino fashion design. It is chic, cosmopolitan, versatile, comfortable, commercial and international. For its debut in Shanghai, the designs of 24 members of the FDCP, plus accessories designer Arnel Papa, will grace the catwalk.

"We were supposed to use at least 30 percent indigenous fabrics combined with any material of our choice," says designer Vic Barba. And indigenous fabrics were indeed very much in attendance–piña, hablon, abaca, Mindanao silk, tinalak, jusi and the like were cleverly combined with Thai silk, tulle, brocade, taffeta, denim and organza.

Fittings and pictorials for the fashion show were scheduled on two separate days four weeks prior to D-day. The atmosphere during fitting day, though far from laid-back, was not chaotic. It was more of a gathering of minds and members of a group working together to bring out the best in each outfit.

In one corner, Vic Barba and stylist Chechel Joson were putting the finishing touches on the designer’s witty, left-of-center streetwear that combines neutral piña, Mindanao silk and jusi with punch-packed, neon-bright citrus hues. Sporty sunglasses, goggles, sun visors and knee-high socks–who would have thought they would work with fabrics long associated with Barong Tagalogs and bridal gowns?

In another corner, director Jackie Aquino was documenting via digital camera each outfit as it was styled and as it should appear on the runway. In yet another corner, accessory designer Arnel Papa’s show-stopping neckpieces and bracelets were laid out for the stylist and designers to choose from.

This was not a case of each designer being on his own and each one trying to outdo the other. When you think about it, fashion is a business and at some level these designers, in spite of their different styles and design sensibilities, are competitors. But the wonderful thing about it is that they help each other.

Menswear designer Anthony Nocom was off in one corner lacing up the back of a Larry Espinosa gown while Larry himself fits his ingenious wedding gown with a basket-inspired woven bodice and a skirt made of strips of frayed-edge piña that simulates feathers.

They are also quick to acknowledge the genius of their peers. While closely looking at a Jesus Lloren piece, Vic Barba states, "Jojie Lloren, the intellectual designer."

And then there is Vic Barba’s magic suitcase. Everytime anyone was in need of something, say a pair of scissors or a stretchy neon key holder or a knit cap, Vic would go to his suitcase and, voilà, produce said item. Later in the day, Rajo Laurel, having already fitted his beautiful strapless piña and organza wedding gown embellished with subtle beading and rolled up strips of fabric that were later unfurled for the final photo, is hard at work styling his yellow piña ensembles. It is interesting to note that chinoiserie figured largely in his well-applauded first solo fashion show at the GSIS Building in 1996.

Gerry Katigbak, whose humor and playfulness are reflected in his denim and katsa outfits accented with organza cut-outs in fuchsia and orange, is revealed to be the stickler for details, personalizing his garment bags with gum labels in colors and shapes to match his organza cut-outs.

Unified by a palette of black, gray and white, Frederick Peralta’s Maria Clara-meets-geisha-meets-Josephine Bracken look was a sight to behold–tops with voluminous sleeves are paired with ball skirts; textures and embroidery are juxtaposed.

But perhaps one of the best parts of this behind-the-scenes peek is the transformation of PJ Arañador’s outfits from plain to wow–it was an experience akin to looking at before-and-after pictures of a successful make-over. On the day of the fitting, PJ came bearing natural, unadorned piña pieces. The following day, the day of the shoot, they had blossomed into actual versions of his color-rendered sketches, and they were definitely ready for their close-ups with photographer Wig Tysmans.

Aside from the designers already mentioned above, the following designers are all set to show Shanghai the best of Philippine fashion: Bong Garcia, Arcy Gayatin, Len Nepomuceno-Guiao, Oj Hoffer, Ricci Lizaso, Robi Lolin, Dennis Lustico, Ramil Noveda, Bobby Novenario, Tippi Ocampo, Dong Omaga-Diaz, Randy Ortiz, Nono Palmos, Patrice Ramos-Diaz and Lulu Tan Gan. The clothes will be presented in four segments: Casual/Streetwear, Cocktail/Clubwear, Evening, and Bridal.

Things are falling into place and soon these designers, stylists, organizers and everyone involved in this exhibition will be making their way to Shanghai. "The FDCP as a group is very optimistic about the prospects of doing business with the Chinese. We’re very thankful that the government has been taking an active role in promoting the fashion industry," says Vic Barba of the project. "We can only wish that the Shanghai Trade Fair is only the start of long term goals of making the Philippines the purveyor and center for tropical wear," he adds.

Ties That Bind: A Philippine Solo Exhibition in Shanghai is a joint undertaking between government and the private sector. Congressman Harry C. Angping, Chairman of the Committee of Trade and Industry of the House of Representatives, filed House Resolution 261 on May 14, 2002, urging President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo to issue an executive order authorizing and fully supporting the conduct of the Philippine Solo Exhibition in Shanghai.

President Macapagal-Arroyo signed Executive Order 122 on September 12, 2002, creating an interagency Coordinating Committee to oversee the Exhibition. Department of Trade and Industry (dti) Secretary Manuel Roxas II, through International Trade Undersecretary Thomas G. Aquino, heads the Committee, together with Congressman Angping. Members of the Committee are the Departments of Foreign Affairs, Tourism and Agriculture, Office of the President and the Philippine Exporters Confederation, Inc.

Ties That Bind: A Philippine Solo Exhibition in Shanghai is organized by the Department of Trade and Industry through CITEM. Exhibition sponsors are Century Canning Corporation; Destileria Limtuaco; Liwayway (China) Co., Ltd.; Metropolitan Bank; Philippine Airlines; PAGCOR, Shoemart, Inc. and Universal Robina Corporation.