No mistaking the WC fever

NUREMBERG — The scene was close to surreal.

In the middle of a medieval town square with its gray cobblestones and ancient fountains were a cluster of colorful tents of sidewalk cafes doing brisk business while the aroma of grilled German sausages and freshly baked gingerbread filled the air together with live broadcast of the games from giant television screens.

In front of the square in the heart of Nuremberg called Marktplatz, stood the famous Frauenkirche Church (Church of Our Lady), built in 1352 and this Sunday was filled with parishioners hearing Holy Mass.

Except it was no regular Sunday. It’s the first Sunday of the month-long World Cup and fans of varying stripes and races have converged on the square. There’s the thumping of drums and chants of ‘Ole, Ole, Ole" and loud refrains of "Cielito Lindo" which could be heard in the confines of the church, seeping into solemnity of the mass.

There’s no escaping the World Cup fever. Passion and patriotism running high in the place.

The square was teeming with people–horn-tooting, beer-guzzling Mexicans outnumbering the Iranians in a raucous street party in the odd hour of mid-day.

They were priming up for the Mexico-Iran Group D showdown in the afternoon at Frankenstadion.

There were relentless singing of anthems, bursts of cheers and songs from the Mexicans and Iranians, swathed in their country’s flags, their faces heavily made up in their nation’s colors.

And friendly taunts.

"Did you pray for Mexico?" asked a confident Saad Hakim Akare, an Iranian engineer based in London to a group of Filipino journalists stepping out of the church. "It sure needs it."

"We also prayed for Iran," said one sportswriter.

The Iranian clasped his hands and rolled his eyes toward heaven. "Oh, thank you. We need it more."

Later, Mexico beat Iran, 3-1, before 42,000 spectators.

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Time really stands still in Nuremberg. Its centuries-old churches and quaint houses and five-kilometer city walls are popular among visitors. It also kept some grim reminders of the dark chapter of the nation’s past.

For one, lying forlorn near the parking lot of the huge football stadium were the remnants of the once favorite parade grounds of the Nazi party, their concrete seats rotting away.

"Bad time for Germany," said one German volunteer.

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Of the 12 cities hosting the World Cup, Munich, where the opening ceremonies were held, boasts of one of the most futuristic and fascinating venues for the games.

The lonzene-shaped translucent exterior can be made to glow in a variety of colors. It has become a shining landmark of the city.

Over 70,000 fans paying for tickets priced from 100 euros to 300 euros (about $400) watched the opening rites steeped in German tradition and "goals galore" of the Germany-Costa Rica match that touched off the month-long quest for football’s ultimate prize.