A chef’s journey

MANILA, Philippines - A gastronomic star from the Philippines has cooked with America’s most experienced chefs in their most sought-after restaurants.

From concocting the iconic French Onion soup to searing the most desired steak au poivre at the prestigious, New York Times 2-star brasserie – THE Balthazar, arguably the best of its kind at SoHo in Manhattan – he’s rubbed shoulders with top chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, who were responsible for the Pastis, Schiller’s Liquor Bar and Minetta Tavern.

He has felt the steaming heat of New York’s 3-star Gramercy Tavern, rated top notch before the days of Michelin stars, breathed in the aroma of herbs and roasts in the inventive revolutionary world of New American Cuisine, and learned the craft of curing meats with top chefs Zach Allen and Wade Moises, protégés who have made a name for themselves after the tutelage of the culinary mastermind Mario Batali.

His skillful hands have spun pizza dough and prepared pasta al dente with the classically rustic flavors of Italy at the Batali-born Otto Enoteca Pizzeria and Lupa, the exceptional chef mogul Michael White’s Fiamma Osteria, and handled newly harvested ingredients of exceptional quality at Postrio by the Austrian-born celebrity restaurateur Wolfgang Puck.

These are just among the many establishments where the Filipino absorbed vast quantities of technique and knowledge complemented with his imaginativeness.

Now he’s back. After 17 years, the prodigal son of cuisine is finally home and he couldn’t be happier. And neither could any of us food lovers.

His name is Jayme Natividad.

Manila-born and raised, he began puttering around the kitchen at a tender age of six or seven with his lola, where he would make scrambled eggs on his own as his mother shared with him the comforting warmth of baking sweet pastries.

With fond memories of Sunday potluck picnics from his childhood, to his formal education at the International Culinary Academy in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to his apprenticeship and professional path in powerhouse restaurants abroad, Natividad is passionately living out a career that is fulfilling for a rare talent who has found his true calling.

When asked where he draws inspiration from, he answers with candid reminiscence.

“I love going to the market and seeing everything fresh – meat, poultry, fish, veggies, spices and flavors. It makes me excited to know that there is a multitude of possibilities to create something good to be enjoyed. The people I cook for inspire me because you get to touch their lives in some way – spark a beautiful memory just with a savoring taste. This is how I feel whenever I eat tinola, sinigang and bolognese, my ultimate stress reliever dishes.”

When asked what his most memorable dish is, he shares that it is a century-old bolognese recipe – simple yet a work of genius – bequeathed to him by a colleague named Christian Fantoni, who himself was given the recipe by an elderly chef in Florence, Italy. 

“Ultimately, I credit a lot of what I can do from the influences of others in the craft. I am glad that I had the opportunity to be in the company of those I met abroad, such as Lee Hanson, Riad Naser, Zach Allen, Seis Kamimura, and Michael White – all big stars in their own right with all of them heading illustrious restaurants in America. Here in the country, I admire Robby Goco of Cyma and Carmina Mapa-del Rosario of Bangkok Wok, whom I love to work and share stories with,” he says.

One can glean from Natividad’s answers that his personality is just as immense and intriguing as his faculties to create more than just the palatable. If fate had turned him in another direction, he reckons that if he would be farmer, being one with the earth and producing high quality yield for everyone, and be able to help others in the process.

In his vocation, Natividad wishes to add several more chapters in his life, which are filled with genuine compassion for dreamers like himself.  He remembers his father who has always encouraged him ever since he was young, and for whom he’d always love to whip up a dish at any given time. Now, as a professional, he wonders what his old man would say after almost two decades in the business.

Natividad cherishes the rewards he has achieved through hard work. He is happy when he brings delight to those he has cooked for and when they thank him for the wonderful meal.

“I remember a beautiful woman who came up to me and praised my shrimp and grits, which reminded her of her grandmother’s recipe. I got a big hug from her and she even kissed me on the cheeks. The lady was no other than the American actress and model Liv Tyler.

“Similar things have happened throughout my career. And for me that is special,” he continues.

For what’s in store in his future, Natividad knows that he still has a lot to master in the ever-evolving universe of the palate, and he is glad for this avenue of growth. One of his ambitions is to have a soup kitchen for the less fortunate, which takes him back to the days after mass in St. Francis Xavier in Chelsea, where the church members asked for volunteers and he readily volunteered to cook for the homeless.

He further narrates his experiences as a chef and relates that it’s a never ending process of learning and developing one’s skills and expertise. He is particularly engaged in French and Italian cuisine, his favorites, for their technicalities and sophistication, and he wishes to explore this further at the INTERNORGA, 89th Trade Show for Catering and Food Service in 2016, a prime avenue to discover even more potentialities in the art of fusion and innovative cookery.

On encouraging others, he believes that focus and the discipline to think things through – the whole nine yards, so to speak – is crucial in the industry.

“One has to be patient and be confident. NEVER stop learning. And this must be done fast. 

“There is a common saying that ‘too many chefs spoil the broth’ and this is true. Roles must be clearly defined in the structure of the kitchen. And one must be given direction to do what is supposed to be done. Even something as simple as salt – the one ingredient I can’t live without – can bring so much out of a dish when used right,” he advises.

From forging a life alongside giants in the industry, it is safe to say that Jayme Natividad is a colossus in his own right. He is now the executive chef of Taal Vista Lodge in Tagaytay where, with his expertise, he captivates guests with the fruits of his journey in the world of global cuisine.  

“Looking back now, everything is just as how it is supposed to be,” he ends.