Mayon from all angles

MANILA, Philippines - It seems as if Albay is built around the Mayon Volcano. From the moment one nears the Legazpi airport, people strain to catch an aerial view of it from their plane windows. On the tarmac, a photo with it in the background is obligatory. Everywhere we visit in the province is in relation to Mayon.

The Bikolano legend has many versions, but all end with Daragang Magayon, a beautiful maiden, dying and the volcano mysteriously emerging in her burial spot. It is believed that the legendary beauty of this maiden (and the volcano, with its near-perfect cone) is so tightly guarded that only those who are pure of heart may catch a glimpse of her. That is why the elusive volcano is usually covered in clouds.

The Cagsawa ruins is another obligatory stop for first-time tourists, where on-site photographers know exactly where you have to stand to take pictures like a giant pushing the side of Mt. Mayon, blowing its clouds away or holding it in your hand.

Like many intriguing women, the beauty of Mayon has an underlying danger, which you are reminded of by the bell tower of the Cagsawa church, its only remaining structure after Mayon’s eruption buried it in 1814 – 200 years ago.

Visitors must also make pitstops all over the capital, Legazpi City, to taste Bikolano dishes and delicacies. It is no wonder that a province known for its volcano is also known for its spicy cuisine.

Popular restaurant, 1st Colonial Grill, serves Bikolano specialties, in varying degrees of spiciness, including pinangat – made with taro leaves, coconut milk and of course chili. Wrapped in a tight package of gabi leaves, these can also be purchased in stores and even at the airport, right before boarding, to be taken home.

Bicol Express features spicy chilies again, with coconut milk, vegetables and meat or seafood. Despite the use of many similar ingredients, the Bikolano dishes still surprisingly have a wide variety of tastes.

1st Colonial Grill also modernizes the traditional fare with a pasta dish called Pasta Bicolana using the famed Guinobatan longganisa. Again, with the signature Bicol spice.

But perhaps the most sought-after item on their menu is on their dessert list – sili ice cream! The effect on the taste buds is reminiscent of Mexican chocolate, which also sneaks chilis into the sweet treat. At first it just tastes pleasantly sweet like any other ice cream, but – wait for it – there’s a spicy kick at the end. It’s a dessert that you will either hate or love, but it is definitely a must-try when visiting Albay.

1st Colonial Grill also offers many other interesting ice cream flavors, including tinutungan (burnt rice); pili nut, another Bicol souvenir must-have; salabat, which balances the strong ginger taste with the delicate sweetness of the ice cream base; calamansi, malunggay and more.

And, if you need to cool your palate further after eating so many chilies, head over to DJC, another Albay icon, for extra-special halo-halo with the works – leche flan, ube, beans, macapuno, coconut milk, shaved ice and more – all topped with grated cheese.

Stomachs filled to capacity, we were ready for the next part of our journey. Traveling outside the capital, we headed towards Misibis Bay on Cagraray Island. Of course, Mayon made its little appearances along the way – turn around a bend in the road and it’s there. And each stop of the journey was to view a different angle of the elusive volcano, which was shrouded with clouds since we arrived.

Ligon Hill is a great vantage point for Mayon, though the view is somewhat obstructed by a zipline. The adventurous could use this as a chance to view the volcano in yet another way.

At the embarcadero, strategically placed letters spelling out Legazpi make for a great tourist-y photo op, with Mayon as its backdrop, of course.

The most amazing view of Mayon, however, is on Five Views on Cagraray Island. Misibis Bay welcomed us with a lovely wine and cheese picnic on a patch of grass on an area named for its 360 degree view of five mountains: Mayon, Malinao, Isarog, Iriga and Masaraga.

The setting, especially during sunset, is nothing short of magical, when the colors of the sky change from clear bright blue, to orange and crimson, to deep purple. When Mayon finally shed its cloud-veil, it was a spectacular end to a long day of traveling.

As Misibis Bay’s resident manager Lisa Zakharka says, though she sees Mayon on an almost daily basis, when she encounters it unobstructed by clouds, it never fails to enchant her. “I still take out my cellphone and take pictures, like a tourist,” she shares.

Dubbed as a “luxury island getaway,” Misibis Bay offers an extravagant experience, still centered around Mayon, of course. The 5-hectare island resort with 90 rooms is a tropical hideaway with superb amenities and exciting activities.

Staying there, one will not feel the need to go elsewhere for the entire trip. Aside from a pool, activity center, casino and other usual hotel facilities, Misibis takes advantage of its location by the sea with exciting water activities. An exhilarating hobie cat ride is in order for those who enjoy the ups and downs of a roller coaster ride, all the while being soaked by the waves. There is also snorkeling and scuba diving.

For those who want to stay on dry land, they can rent an all-terrain vehicle and explore the Misibis Bay property, up to the viewing point, again showcasing Mayon. There are also tour packages where you can take the ATV to the crater itself. A zipline and luge ride is also in order for the fun-loving guests.

The trip is capped with a sunset cruise which, if you are lucky, will give you another glimpse of Mayon.

During our whole Albay trip, Mayon chose to reveal herself only once, and only partially at that.

On our last day, even when boarding the plane, we strained our eyes and craned our necks, willing Mayon to greet us one last time. But, as always, she remained hidden – all the more reason, the Albayanons say, to visit the province again.