More than paella

To the Filipino culinary consciousness, paella is equated with Spanish cuisine. But there is more than this rice specialty in Iberian cookery. History records that from the 3rd century B.C., various peoples crossed the Mediterranean, including the Romans, to Spain for its salted fish and a sauce called garum, a condiment made from fish entrails, marinated and fermented. There then came about the trading of garum and olive oil.

By the 8th century, with the arrival of the Muslims from North Africa, numerous farming systems were introduced, resulting in new crops. The 15th century, when Columbus discovered America, opened Spain up to be the catalyst of a food revolution throughout Europe. Tomatoes and peppers became staples. Marinades, fried fishes, a fusion of sweet and sour flavors, desserts of honey and almonds marked this period, while the Jewish culture brought about the slow-cooked stews such as cocido and pochero.

Within this time, the Iberian technique of using tomatoes, peppers and other spices evolved. The cold soup gazpacho came about. The late 70s saw the emergence of nouvelle cuisine. A group of innovative cooks, led by Ferran Adria, did their thing, and thus emerged the New Cuisine, including tapas.

Now, the paella. A “must” ingredient is saffron, which with pimenton (paprika) was actually brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Muslims in the 9th century AD. It is a testimony to the genius of Spain’s culinary masters that they have become very essential parts of their cuisine. In Manila, have paella either at Alba’s, Terry Selection, La Tienda or Buona Vita.

One other food product that symbolizes this cuisine is ham. The duo of Iberico and Serrano hams are done by salting legs of pork and curing them in the air for several months. It is an acorn-fed animal that is specially bred and made into ham.

We can go on citing the many epicurean treasures of Spain. The olives, the cheeses (goat cheese, manchego being our favorite), fresh fruits and vegetables, the organic produce, the sweets, and yes, their wines. They introduced sherry in the 15th century which the British helped popularize. Today, Spanish wines are ranked high in the world.

What, then, makes Spain a major food producer? Basically its varied range of climate and soils, the sea, the mountain, rivers, forests.

And now there is Foodjects, an exhibition at the Enderun in Global City, which runs for a fortnight starting Jan. 16. This focuses on the partnership between chefs and manufacturers of cooking equipment and accessories that would enhance food presentation. Porcelain and other quality materials are used in making very artistic and innovative plates and other cooking tools. They call the system “food formats” for a better appreciation of textures, flavors, contrasts and aromas. The creators have updated some of the dishes, like the deconstructed Spanish omelette served on a dish specifically made for it. Could you imagine the Lladro classic of horse legs and hooves as handles and legs of coffee or tea pots and handles of cups?

Go, visit Foodjects and know on what plate you should serve your soup or your main course. Call the Cultural Office of the embassy of Spain, tel. 817-6676, for more information.

Cook Spanish this week.

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