The world at the edge

MANILA, Philippines – What is it like to be at the edge of the world? Those seeking the answer may find it in Itbayat, Batanes, the northernmost tip of the Philippines.

While Basco and Sabtang islands are on top of the list of many travellers and have been developed for tourism, Itbayat offers a quaint, untouched area yet to be discovered even by adventurous tourists.

The biggest of the three inhabited islands of Batanes province – two times bigger than Batan, where the capital Basco is located – officials are tapping into Itbayat’s potential as a tourist destination. Its airport is currently being improved to accomodate larger aircraft. Since the Basco airport is too small, the plan is to make Itbayat the main entry point to Batanes by air and offer flights from there to other islands. A plane ride from Itbayat to Basco takes only five minutes, while traveling the same distance by water takes three to five hours, depending on the waves.

At present, smaller planes make direct flights from Manila three times a week, an increase from previous years as Batanes becomes more and more popular as a tourist destination.

The view from the air alone makes the whole trip worth it, before even setting foot on the island. Passengers are treated to an aerial view of Laoag and Baguio, as well as a breathtaking glimpse of the Banaue rice terraces, a treat that one would not experience on ground.

The Itbayat airport is situated at the topmost part of the island, giving visitors a 360º view of the island’s splendor, surrounded by the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean.

The landscape is almost like a painting that has been brought to life.

The island has no electricity at night and does not offer the usual accommodations, though there is a tourist center. The island is ideal for cavers and backpackers who enjoy camping out.

The birthplace of the original Ivatans, the people of Itbayat have a long history and rich tradition. Its oldest resident is Prudencia Capito who, at 98, is still healthy and active. (The province’s oldest resident is 102-year-old Marcelo Hestarilo, who lives in Chavayan on Sabtang island.) She says she uses only herbal medicine and instead of water drinks buko juice

With a population of a little over 3,000, everyone in the community knows each other, making the area very safe. In fact, it boasts a zero-crime rate.

The rough roads and rugged way of life is softened by the warmth and hospitality of Itbayat’s people. Walking through the small community, residents do not hesitate to invite travellers in, asking the standard Filipino question: “Have you eaten?“ and offering a refreshing drink of buko juice.