Nostalgic about Quiapo

Our friend Chato has a strong sense of history. He has been away from the country for a long time and was homesick, specially for the Quiapo that he knew. One early morning we drove to what is now Quiapo, tracing a nostalgic route from the corner of the old Escolta to Sta. Cruz and finally Echague which is now Carlos Palanca. I didn’t promise him anything and simply allowed him to cross one street after another, taking in the sights.

Basically, Quiapo is the church (on that Friday morning crowded with devotees of the Nazareno), Quinta Market and the commercial Carriedo. Aghast at the monstrosity of the pillars on the square, our friend walked with us to the wet market. not without noticing the proliferation of sidewalk vendors selling practically every kind of food stuff, salad greens, eggs, carrots, seafood, and fruits, some of them priced by the tumpok. Quiapo is very much the same, like it had been left behind in the rush for progress. The Mayor gave the street vendors tents lined up along Villalobos. Today the tents are a pathetic sight, tattered and faded. Yet shoppers abound and vendors are happy. We found the embutido of Tuding from Batangas, a young man who’s selling the pork loaf at P35 per. Right beside him is another Batangueña, Mely, offering sinaing na tulingan at P30 per.

Excellente ham is still there. Their newest offering is packed chicharon made from ham skin, P50 per big pack. Peanuts and hopia, lettuce and carrots are all there, plus plates and pans, curtain materials, even corchos (the step-ins of old). Off on Orozo Street is Killion, a favorite of those in the food business for bulk purchase of quality meat, baking ingredients, sotanghon and seasoned chicken, among others.

We went into the wet market where, in our youth, we would sit with our mother in the carinderia section and enjoy pancit and halo-halo. The food row is still there, but it does not appear as appetizing as it used to be. But yes, Quiapo will always be there.

From there we drove to Divisoria. We did not see the usual mound of decaying vegetables but litter was still all over and we noted some homeless families actually living in small make-shift tents, wondering if they’d ever have decent roofs over their heads. Rather than traverse the small streets leading to the market proper, we decided to move on to Binondo. Our lunch stop was Café Mezzanine on Ongpin Street. This is a restaurant with a a conscience: Part of its income goes to the Binondo Volunteer Fire, Search and Rescue Brigade Inc., which we know has efficiently rendered assistance where the local firemen have failed to respond fast enough. Good, reasonably priced food and quick service.

Off to Carvajal Street we went, only a few steps away. There’s actually no need to go to Divisoria, for on this narrow strip you find practically everything a housewife needs. Suahe, still jumping, at P350 a kilo, prawns at P520, apahap (sea bass) at P230 a kilo. We had to stop at the Eng Bee Tin store for some multi-flavored hopia.

Another friend Monchet Carballo enticed us to visit once again the Salcedo Saturday market where he offers products from Tierra de España. The Chistorra sausage makes great breakfast fare. Slice it into small diced bits, cook in its own oil and add scrambled eggs. This costs P175 for 210 gms. We used to get Sobresada from somewhere else, but Tierra has it. We normally spread this soft sausage made with nutmeg and lemon on bread.

Do you fancy Kobe beef? This market has Wagyu which is actually the meat passed as Kobe because the cows are raised there. Expensive, yes, but if one will consider the process it undergoes before it is placed in the market, you might want to splurge on it once in a while. It’s Viger Trading that carries this. Brisket is priced at P450 a kilo, boneless striploin at P1,500, tenderloin at P2,000. They have a pack for four hamburger patties for P220.

More familiar sellers include Abby’s house which was a pioneer in making crispy and paper-thin oatmeal cookies (P160). Their new item is bottled singkamas achara, tagged at P75. Le Cuisine France was doing good business, crowded with buyers, and this is not strange because owner Michelle has a collection of delicious dishes, including her popular Cassoulet. Finally we found Uncle George’s Hershey’s Choco Monkey Bread which we missed in our last visit to Tiendesitas (P120 each loaf).

Spend a day in any of these weekend markets. You’ll have fun.

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