Bounties of the Land, Harvests of the Sea

It seems only yesterday. But it has been almost three years since Carlo Mesina, an engineer by training and profession, and his wife Patricia, a literature graduate, decided to rent a hole-in-wall space along Katipunan in Quezon City to experiment with a restaurant serving food they wanted to eat. The restaurant, later christened Kulinarya Kitchen, became a hit, but it closed early this year as preparations for a bigger project got underway.

A recently opened branch of Kulinarya in Power Plant Mall Rockwell Center is attracting a mostly female crowd notably because of its fresh salads and other healthy concoctions.

Emboldened by the success of the two Kulinarya branches, engineer Carlo and literature buff Patricia, who is also a chef, teamed up with good-looking chef Francis Saldaña, Patricia’s brother-in-law, and went on to create Cascada in Greenbelt 3.

Carlo beams with pride as he recalls the very first day his team started work on the Cascada interiors. They had to literally begin from scratch, from the wiring to the finishing.

But all the pain, grit and determination to craft an interior of extraordinarily graceful and clean lines paid off: the restaurant’s aura can immediately be felt upon entering. "Cascada’s interior has the ambiance of combined Asian and European influences to create a balance of the yin and yang."

On the other hand, the exteriors of Cascada, which means waterfalls, is made of wood and floor-to-ceiling glass paneling.

A minimalist rendition of a waterfalls involving two very thick glass panels where water trickles, resting against marble blocks, greet guests. Abutting the waterfalls are tall grasses. From the entrance, one is transported to a thematic world of earth and water. The curtains are silk, the accent pieces earthenware while stained wood, a ceiling with solid black decor and dramatic lighting amplify the presentation of space. A wrought-iron votive candle-holder silently stands against the white wall.

While the two Kulinarya branches revolve around New World flavors–or what Patricia fondly calls their "cuisine based on the harmonious combination of ingredients and cooking techniques of Asia and Europe"–Cascada is "cross-cultural, showcasing the new definition of surf and turf, a flavorful marriage of bounties of the land and harvests from the sea".

Cascada makes one feel at home. Service is not overly formal, but not too casual. The menu is stunningly simple, but wait till the dishes and drinks appear before you. The Lanelle Abueva-crafted dinnerware in earth tones and blues and greens are used as canvasses upon which ingredients are the ephemeral media in preparing something that is a delight to devour.

One of the most daunting tasks in trying out a new menu is deciding what to choose. On the night we visited Cascada, we willingly surrendered to Carlo, Patricia and Francis. It was a night not to be shy, but to enjoy the phenomenal poise and arresting elegance, if I may be allowed to say, of Cascada: its food, ambiance and gracious staff.

I thought nothing would shock me anymore after all my global-trotting. It is an understatement to say that I was enraptured when "Soup Shots" was served. Whoever thought of concocting three soups to be served in what looked like dainty sake (Japanese rice wine) cups should be honored by having the Soup Shots renamed after him or her. The three soups are mushroom, cream of kangkong (chicly called water spinach instead of the unappetizing swamp cabbage) and crab bisque. This soup medley is the one to beat.

For our salad, we sampled Gravlax and Cream Cheese Fritters with wasabi dressing and dill-mustard vinaigrette. Then we went on to have the Tinapa Salad, which Cascada serves with a twist. It comes with Mandarin oranges and pommery mustard vinaigrette. You must try either of the two–nothing fancy but simply heavenly.

Deep Fried Seafood Maki was our starter–shrimp and crabstick salad rolled in nori (seaweed), breaded and deep fried, topped with ebiko and laced with wasabi vinaigrette, soy balsamic reduction and mango coulis. This starter captures the guest by its sheer presentation, framed in a blue and off-white square earthen dish, with the mango coulis splashed playfully on the outer rim of the plate. The dish is beguilingly delectable.

By the time our plates were cleared after finishing off the starter, I was dying to go to the Cascada kitchen to find out what would be served to us next.

España and Italia are served at Cascada through the novel and successful number called Paella Pasta, which is actually Spanish paella mixed with seafood and chicken saffron in spaghetti. The natural flavor of the cacophony of seafood, olive oil, peas, red pepper is naturally intensified by fresh herbs.

I wanted to stop here, but the grilled skewers were served. There were four dishes to be sampled: chicken tikka with pineapple and shallots, raita and mango chutney; tuna satay with red and green peppers and shallots, wasabi dressing and soy-balsamic vinaigrette; chicken yakitori with green peppers and leeks, shiitake (mushroom) and teriyaki sauce; vegetables such as eggplant, tomato, red and green pepper, asparagus with parmesan slivers and balsamic vinaigrette; and lamb with eggplant, tomato and onion, mint onion confit and red wine capers sauce.

The grilled skewers, according to Carlo, are popular among male customers. The skewers reveal the chef’s ingenuity in combining what meat to which vegetable or fruit to enhance its flavor. I tried the grilled skewers with the tinapa and orange rice; I heartily recommend that you also do so. The slivers of sweet orange initially sharpens the saltiness of tinapa, until both blend mercifully inside your mouth.

Talk about reinventing turon! One will find bliss in ending a Cascada meal with its Apple Strudel Turon with raisins, walnuts, pistachio and pinipig served with quezo ice cream and butterscotch sauce! This version of turon should be eaten in slow, small bites to enjoy its sinful sweetness.

If you want to genuinely savor and enjoy the bounties of the land and harvests of the sea, you should not forego Cascada.