‘The Modern Negrense’
There really is something about Negrense food that gets me excited. Maybe because my mom is from there and I grew up eating food my mom or grandmother prepared. I have always loved food from there and I attended a dinner that presented this cuisine in a very modern way.
The Modern Negrense was an excellent eight-course dinner by Chefs Patrick Go of Your Local (YL) in Manila and Don Colmenares of Sauma (S) in Bacolod! Patrick, like me, is half Negrense. These two talented young chefs modernized classic Negrense food and made it a truly enjoyable dinner! I actually have not been to Sauma and it is part of my bucket list! I am glad Don actually cooked here in Manila!
We started with snacks, which was a collaborative effort by YL and S. Three starters included crab, langka (jackfruit), corn, sinamak (vinegar) on top of a kropek (shrimp cracker); inasal arancini (Italian rice balls) with roasted garlic aioli, and beef lechon, and cheese on a fried slice of mantou. YL prepared aged talakitok (trevally) with smoked dashi(Japanese bonito stock), criollo (a type of cacao) vinegar, and native cucumber. Sauma made their version of Molo with native Darag chicken, native duck, garlic infused consommé , and chicken oil and YL made the classic Ilonggo vegetable dish, laswawith burnt kalabasa (squash), alugbati, and onion,
There were two main courses with the dry aged black pig pork neck, criollo cacao mole, tinigib(Visayan white corn) polenta by S while YL prepared beef and marang (johey oak fruit) - roast beef, batwan sambal, marang jus, saluyot (jute leaves), and ginger. This was served with Ilonggo staple, kalkag (sun dried small shrimps) fried rice.
Desserts included Don’s “tiramisu local” made with Negros coffee sponge cake, Don Papa syrup, and kesong puti crema (local white cheese cream) while Pat made libas with tres leches, libas (hog plum leaf) cream, burnt milk, and crispy rice.
Two special cocktails created by Don Papa Rum were served that night – Darker Don made with Don Papa Rum, ginger beer, and calamansi, and Papa Daiquiri made with Philippine citrus fruits dalandanand dayap mixed with agave, and Don Papa Rum.
Some of these dishes obviously deviated from the traditional or classic Negrense dishes that may be familiar to others but their take on these dishes is what made me enjoy the dinner even more. It was their creativity and their take on these dishes is what made this dinner very memorable. The only sad thing about that dinner is that it was only for one night.
(Your Local is located at 106 Esteban Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City. Call or text (0977) 4879236 for reservations or inquiries.)
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