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Newsmakers

The birth of El Born Philippines

THE PEPPER MILL - Pepper Teehankee - The Philippine Star
The birth of El Born Philippines
Chefs David Amoros and JJ Saycon
Chefs David Amoros and JJ Saycon

El Born is a trendy neighborhood in Barcelona. It has narrow medieval streets with boutiques and cafés during the day and restaurants and bars at night. It is also the name of an underrated restaurant on the second floor of Mitsukoshi BGC that serves amazing Catalan/Mediterranean cuisine.  It is helmed by chef David Amoros, whose journey in the kitchen began late in life and quite by chance, despite him always being passionate about food.

He started his career as a cook in various restaurants before pursuing his dream of opening his own, with the help of his wife, Ivone. As a self-taught cook, he believes “great cooking comes from the heart and soul.” He has always placed emphasis on using high-quality, seasonal products and has been a member of the Slow Food Km. 0 Catalonia collective for several years. This “Slow Food International” movement champions local, sustainable, and small-scale producers.

His restaurant in Barcelona became a landmark in the city, offering an array of tapas and dishes for sharing, a concept that was unusual and unheard of at the time. Throughout his culinary journey, he opened more restaurants, but fate led him and Ivone to an opportunity to open a new restaurant in Manila. He owned two restaurants — Lola Tapas and Lola Bistro — for 12 years. These were family-oriented, cozy establishments with a similar menu to what he offers in El Born. He intends to cook dishes that showcase the flavors and traditions of his homeland, Catalonia. He works with chef JJ Brian Saycon at El Born.

Prawn salad

The restaurant is named so because El Born in Barcelona holds a special place in the hearts of chef David and Ivone. Their aim was to introduce a restaurant in Manila that truly embodies European aesthetics and culinary style, both in its decor and the cuisine it offers. His dishes are a fusion of Catalan recipes with Italian and French influences. These dishes are meant to be shared and are rich in the flavors of Mediterranean spices seasoned with olive oil. Many of these recipes have their roots in their restaurants in Tarragona, Catalonia.

They take pride in crafting everything within the restaurant, utilizing the finest local ingredients and importing some from Europe. El Born features a Josper oven, considered the best in the market. He says, “All dishes cooked in the Josper oven acquire a distinctive touch, whether it’s a simple dish like chicken marinated with Mediterranean spices cooked in our oven, accompanied by crispy potatoes or vegetables a? la Provenc?ale or one of our two rice dishes — black rice or Iberian meat rice — both finished in the Josper oven, which imparts a unique, smoky flavor that comes from wood and firewood. These dishes are designed for sharing and are perfect for two people.”

The Josper is like a combination of a charcoal grill and oven and was invented in Barcelona in 1969.

Casual tapas offered include classics such as patatas bravas, chicken croquettes with truffle (order the delicious off-menu shrimp croquettes), and the iconic Barcelona dish Bomba de la Barceloneta — potato stuffed with spicy pork served with salsa tomato picante and aioli. The Burrata salad with fresh greens and pesto is a bestseller, but I marveled with the prawn salad with greens, mushrooms, Iberian ham, and the chef’s own mustard! Must-try, too, is Cantabrian anchovies served with smoked butter and the Iberian ham served with pan con tomate or Catalan crisp artisan bread with fresh tomatoes.

They offer two types of arroz or rice for now: Iberian pork rice topped with Joselito pancetta and black rice with squid and cuttlefish.  People should know that this is not Spanish paella. Arroz is more of a hybrid of paella and risotto, so the rice is constantly mixed (unlike paella that is left to cook without mixing) to give it a risotto finish and diners should not expect any socarrat or that thin, burnt layer of rice under the filling. These dishes are finished in the Josper to give it a bit of smokiness. I had the Arroz de Carne Iberico (Iberian pork rice), which is the finest that I have had since the one I had in Spain.

Chef David is not a baker but his signature El Born Cheesecake simply blew my mind.  It was just perfect and whether one has space for dessert or not, this is a must-order.

A private room in El Born

Their wine selection is a representation of the Mediterranean region, featuring a wide range of Catalan, Spanish, and select Italian and French labels. They also offer a diverse selection of craft beers and a combination of classic cocktails and some signature drinks.

Their strategy is simple: they aim to excel in their craft, ensuring that their customers savor every bite of their cuisine, and that they depart El Born with a thought in mind: “I’ve just enjoyed the best Catalan food I have ever had.”

I believe they made me think that when I left their restaurant, yearning to go back very soon.

I can’t wait for two more of his concepts, Papeo and La Rotisserie, both opening at The Corner House in San Juan City soon. Watch out for those!

* * *

El Born is located on the second floor of Mitsukoshi BGC, 8th Avenue corner 26th Street, Taguig City. Call (0917) 3169129 for inquiries or reservations. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Follow me on Instagram @pepperteehankee.

BARCELONA

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