Once on an island

Half the size of Boracay, Balesin Island in Polilio, Quezon makes one wonder why one has to leave the Philippines to experience the world.

Twenty minutes from Manila by private plane, the island boasts several themed “villages” with expansive views of the ocean.

A three-hour tour of Balesin by jeepney or golf cart takes one around the world: to a Spanish-flavored village called Costa del Sol, a Thai hideaway called Phuket, a storybook cluster of blue-and-white villas called Mykonos, colorful St. Tropez, romantic Toscana, exotic Bali and rustic Balesin.

Businesswoman Pinky Tobiano by an eight-room villa in Balesin.

Developed by businessman Robert V. Ongpin or “RVO,” Balesin is a bit of a snob — with no apologies — because only members and their guests have access to it. Hence, it has remained a tropical forest surrounded by beaches, with clusters of themed villages quite a distance from each other.

Last Wednesday, when businesswoman and philanthropist Pinky Tobiano invited a small group of friends to the island, we happened to be the only guests (during the Christmas season, about a thousand guests fly to the island, occupying virtually all available villas).

I imagined myself to be Jackie O. on Skorpios — imagine, an island virtually to myself! Yes, once on an island.

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There have been changes in Balesin since my last visit a couple of years ago — there are now private villas for sale for one. The biggest villa — a sprawling tropical beachfront mansion with eight suites, each suite a virtual villa in itself — is on the market reportedly for P250 million. It can also be rented by the day for P250,000. One of the other villas, a smaller one but no less beautiful, has been bought by a powerful woman.

There is also now an aviary donated by a Filipino-Chinese family.

One of the biggest changes to the island is the Aegle Wellness Center adjacent to Mykonos Village. Named after Aegle, the Greek goddess of healing, the center is known for “Thalassotherapy,” from the Greek word for “sea.” It makes use of the components of the sea for medical treatments, including weight loss, detoxification, anti-aging and regeneration. These components, according to the center, include “seawater, mud and silt, algae and seaweed.”

The Aegle Wellness Center beside Mykonos Village. Photo by Jar Concengco

We were toured around the four-story building, created in the style of Mykonos or Santorini. There are saltwater whirlpools that use water brought in from the sea (our guide showed us the pipe that transports the water).

According to the center, seawater is the closest element  on earth to human blood. “Bathing in agitated seawater helps repair surface blemishes on the skin and wicks out toxins, even those that have accumulated over years of city living.”

The thalassotherapy pools at Aegle Balesin are found at the indoor hydromassage circuit pool area and the open pool area facing the sea, as well as the upper roof deck. On the roof deck, there are three pools, each pool with its own specialty: balance, relax and energize.

I didn’t try any of the treatments as the center was closed for maintenance (as were the other villages, except the Balesin Village). But I do know that just being by the sea is invigorating.

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The biggest single villa on the island is the Royal Villa, known for being the place where Heart Evangelista stayed before her Balesin wedding to Sen. Chiz Escudero. It can accommodate 50 people and may be rented for P300,000 nightly. It is a melange of different Asian elements, a touch of Bali here, a bit of Thailand there, Filipino influences everywhere. I especially liked the intricate wooden wall décor, carved on the island by the locals.

Each of the themed villages has a specialty restaurant, and the main clubhouse has a steakhouse, a Japanese restaurant and a Korean restaurant aside from the main dining area, which extends to a breezy veranda.

Our tour guide Jason Hollman Yulo also took us to the crab and sea bass farm, and for the dinner hosted by Pinky, we had freshly harvested crabs cooked three ways: garlic, sweet and sour and chili.

Do you know the way to St. Tropez?

According to Pinky, everything served on the island (except for the steak) is grown or harvested there. Even the runway doubles as a catchment basin for rainwater, which goes to a treatment facility on the island. So much so that if drought hits the island, it can survive for a year and a half with its own water reserves.

We were also told that easily, there are at least 150 people securing the island anytime day or night.

Each guest on Balesin inadvertently ends up with his or her own favorite village. Pinky’s favorite is Mykonos, because its blue-and-white charm is the closest to Greece you can get without leaving the Philippines. Others are drawn to St. Tropez because of its colorful buildings. Phuket has the island vibe. Toscana is romantic. Bali Village has two “water” villas on stilts with wrap-around balconies. Balesin Village (my favorite) has the longest and widest beachfront and the biggest individual villas.

In Balesin, you are ensconced in a tropical forest that has a beach at its doorstep. And the best part is, it isn’t unlikely that wherever you choose to stay, the island feels like it’s all yours.

(You may e-mail me at [email protected].)