À Table! (Dulce & Spice & Everything Nice)

Last Christmas, while preparing the family’s favorite Crispy Roast Pork Belly, Dulce Magat-Gibb accidentally spilled scalding hot pork oil on her right leg. Coincidentally, her husband Michael, former GM of the Mandarin Oriental Manila, had gone out to buy ice and their househelp had also gone out on an errand. She was home alone. The first thing Dulce, former executive chef of Via Mare, did when the househelp arrived was to ask for a pack of frozen peas, which she used to cool her burns.

Because it was Christmas, she refused to be rushed to the ER and spent the whole afternoon still cooking and humming in the kitchen. Her leg was wrapped in frozen ice and she was running on adrenaline. It wasn’t till late in the evening that she allowed herself a break, felt the pain and reluctantly sought medical help.

Today, almost a year later, Dulce doesn’t mind wearing short skirts that show off her shapely legs and the visible white scar that runs the length of one of them. She’s a cook, after all, she says proudly — and has the scars to show for it.

With Michael based in Macau and their daughter Tamara studying in London, Dulce finds herself with more time nowadays to do what she loves to do most — cook and bake. If love of cooking can make this woman oblivious to physical pain — I mean, what more proof can one have of her devotion to it? The icing on the cake comes from being able to earn from something she enjoys doing.

“I had been the executive chef for Via Mare in the early ‘90s and had mostly been entertaining and cooking for family and friends since I had married Michael 22 years ago,” says Dulce. His hotel assignments have taken them to Hong Kong, Malaysia, the Middle East and Europe and she not only collected recipes from their journeys — she imbibed the intricacies of many cultures and brought home treasures from each of them.

So much so that a lunch or dinner in the Gibb home — the penthouse of an apartment building in Salcedo Village, which has an herb garden on its terrace — isn’t just a gustatory feast. It’s a visual feast as well. A production with Dulce as chef, set designer, propsman, floor director and storyteller.

And the whole ensemble — from the décor at the doorway, to the table centerpieces, to the napkin rings; from the appetizers to the main course to the tea served in individual pots is an experience, not just a meal. It’s feeding and satiating all senses.

Dulce is starting out a line of “Gourmet Food To Go” based from her home and served in her home upon request. She has christened it “À Table,” which is French for, “Come, eat!”

“I love to eat and feed people. Love food and different cuisines and can talk about it the whole time. I think it’s easier to get to know people and bond when we love food together,” Dulce smiles.

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Dulce gave us a sneak preview of what a Christmas feast would be like if she would prepare it.

She transformed her home into a festive abode — a Christmas tree with Lladro angels and golden satin swags stood on one corner. Succulents were airbrushed in gold, silver and bronze and arranged in clusters all throughout the living and dining rooms.

For starters, we had Dalandan-Don Papa Bellini, Smoked Salmon Rillette, Carabao’s Milk Ricotta Layered with Sun-Dried Tomato and Pesto, Cheddar Crackers, Sushi Trifle served with Spicy Tuna and Kecap Manis-Yogurt Dressing.

The main course was a choice of Baked Whole Salmon in Salt Crust (which she unearthed before our every eyes) served with Shallot-Verjus Cream/Egg-Yogurt Tartare/Chimichurri/Calamansi-Brown Butter or Crispy Roast Pork Belly. The latter was served with Mashed Potato and Peas with Jamon. It had an array of condiments and sauces — Dijon Mustard/Lingonberry Sauce/Apple Sauce/Gravy. Both dishes nestled on beds of fresh herbs from her garden.

The Crispy Roast Pork was done the English way, the way Michael likes it. Dulce used to do it the French way, which they would argue over till a well-meaning friend finally gave her a recipe for the English dish. Its skin is something like our lechon kawali, but the texture and taste of the laman is out of this world. For me, the laman is like a melt-in-your mouth version of Cebu lechon.

The salmon was succulence in a fish. The salt crust, which provides for high temperatures that cook what is beneath it, sealed the flavor and freshness of the salmon so much so that when Dulce peeled the crust open, the salmon was still baby pink (but cooked) and bubbling in its own juices.

Dulce’s dessert  buffet consisted of Chocolate Mousse served with Strawberry Coulis and Orange Salad, Honey Layer Cake and Kransekake. The Kransekake is said to be a Swedish bachelor’s cake made up of almond rounds piled one over the other. Every round (shaped like a doughnut, actually) is supposed to be split by two friends.

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So there were stories about every dish and every glass — the aquamarine water glasses came from Syria. The chandelier of Oriental lamps strung horizontally was bought in the Middle East but was made in Venice. The centerpieces were empty bottles of Evian water with red lids, which Dulce rescued from the kitchen before they landed in the dumpster. And part of each table setting was an intricately designed cup brimming with chocolate kisses.

After all, what is the chef named “Dulce” for?

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