Applying Cinque Terre lessons to the Cordillera rice terraces

(Part 2 of a series on Twinning the Ifugao and Cinque Terre World Heritage Sites)

PORTO VENERE, Italy — Descending to the rocky promontory of Manarola, our Ifugao Rice Terraces team – Governor Teddy Baguilat Jr., Hungduan Mayor Pablo Cuhayon, Culture heritage expert Joy Mananghaya, and me – took the ferryboat of the Cooperativa Battellieri del Porto di Genoa to Porto Venere accompanied by Professor Mariolina Besio.

Governor Baguilat was limping, having fractured his foot as he jogged up to the heights of the Montenero sanctuary of Riomaggiore during the first days.

Demolition of Hotel and Bridge

Arriving a few days before the delegation, I saw on TV the demolition of the shell of an unfinished four-story building at Palmaria – an island off Porto Venere. The construction was not finished for non-conformity with the present conservation strategies of the island. Another structure, a gigantic bridge that crosses the highway between Manarola and Riomaggiore is also underway to being demolished. To some Italian authorities, these examples of demolitions (non-conformance to traditional and natural settings and to the present strategies for conservation) have been a long awaited move, the success of which has been achieved after 40 years of efforts.

Part of Porto Venere (“Port of Venus”), together with two smaller islands of Tino and Tinetto is rich in biodiversity. This is the tip of the whole UNESCO mare riservata (marine reserve) that forms a single gulf together with Cinque Terre coastal towns.

On hand to meet us were: Councilor for Cultural Matters, Dr. Paola Roberta Faggioni; Councilor for the Islands of Porto Venere, Ms. Marisa Bertivotti; Councilor for UNESCO Matters, Arch. Enrica Maggiani; and the architect from the Private Sector, Arch. Stefano Banocchi. It was Porto Venere food tasting day with each small trattoria and ristorante displaying tables for free sampling of their typical dishes. The eateries were along two parallel alleys, which had several souvenir stores selling Italian ceramics and Cinque Terre wine delicacies. On one doorway is the very old three-story residence of Dr. Faggioni. A property she inherited from her in-laws, it had a spacious balcony with a magnificent view of Porto Venere bay.

Lessons on landscape architecture and vernacular houses

A tourism strategy has already been identified in the Master Plan for the Rehabilitation of the Rice Terraces, but this has yet to be fully realized. Cinque Terre has reached a self-sustaining level, which is a far cry from the present level of tourism and economy at the Ifugao Rice Terraces.

On the issue of traditional house rehabilitation, the Italian authorities specifically from the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Genoa, noted the need for the Rice Terraces to come up with new architectural designs. The Ifugao straw-roofed huts on wooden posts should include the comforts of guest rooms, modern kitchen, as well as toilet and bath.

The Cinque Terre vineyard houses are only used by its residents a few weeks during the spring pruning season and the autumn harvest. The grape vine cultivators have their town residences during the rest of the year. But, today, tourists may rent the vineyard houses for a few days.

Lessons on cuisine

On the food and cuisine production, Cinque Terre uses natural herbs, such as sage, saffron, rosemary, thyme, basil, which makes its local cuisine unique. It has also developed the popular limoncino liquore, pesto, extra virgin oil, saffron (expensive food color made from the stamen of the flower), honey from acacia and chestnut flowers. White wine from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino grapes are sought after in the Cantina Sociale (wine cooperatives).

It is therefore also hoped that the Rice Terraces, with its local simple food preparation, including its rice wine, would be able to develop a food industry and cuisine that is so uniquely Ifugao.

OB Montessori College, for food testing, has tried using Tinawon rice for risotto and paella. After the harvest season, ducks, Japanese eel and golden snails grow in the rice paddies of Ifugao. The latter can be cooked ala French escargot or with gata (coconut milk).

Tourist cards for economic sustainability

The Cinque Terre Park issues sentieri passes or tourist cards purchased at the local train station of Riomaggiore. Foot path maps, list of museums, bed and breakfast accommodations, park stores and eateries are included. There are 13 walking trails connecting all the five coastal towns interspersed with geo-parks in full bloom with lavender, violet campanulas, red valerian and poppies. Likewise, the Ifugao rainforest have numerous endemic plants currently being recorded by Botany taxonomist and UNESCO Commissioner Dr. Domingo Madulid of the National Museum.

An Ifugao tour card to be developed by cooperatives will enhance the visit to Ifugao province. A major factor is the availability of vehicles from Kiangan, Banawe, Hungduan, Mayoyao and Batad. Experienced tourist guides can be organized for local Ifugao residents, who are very good mountain hikers. The Ifugao State College Agriculture and Forestry (ISCAF) can be a training center partnering with cooperatives. For sustainable economic development, various service providers from drivers, tour guides, eatery personnel, market and souvenir store attendants will uplift its eco-tourism industry.

The importance of GIS

With the help of the University of Genoa, the Geographic Information System (GIS) generated maps for Cinque Terre conservation management. This shows the different typologies of buildings, the different geological conditions of the land (soil types, areas prone to erosion or to seismic activities, etc), and the different geo-morphological features of the property.

This information system enables the Bureau to make certain decisions according to certain situational conditions, especially concerning risk and disaster mitigation and management. We hope that GIS experts from the Faculty of Architecture of the university can assist the Ifugao Rice Terraces in the same way.

On cooperative systems

It was the feast of the miraculous Madonna of Montenero, the sanctuary on the highest part of the Riomaggiore cliffs. Although a rackrail cableway was available for us to ascend the mountain faster to catch the Sunday Mass, the rain and wind was too strong to ride it. The church is filled with heart pendants, and gifts of families, mostly fishermen or ship men, who were rescued miraculously from the ocean tempests.

Cinque Terre has been very successful in the management of its cooperative systems. The 200 cooperatives are directed by Gianluca Pasini. Thus, products and services are ably controlled, regulated and managed. The Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras still has its ubbu system for the planting, harvesting and maintenance of the rice terraces. Ifugao is also famous for its traditional wood carving and hand loom weaving. Its heirloom rice export has gained grounds in the past four years as supermarkets in America, Italy, Canada and the Netherlands have made them popular as gourmet wild rice.

It is hoped that with the Twinning Programme, the Cinque Terre cooperative experts can provide training in the different approaches to cooperative management.

Good news from the Seville World Heritage Site Conference

These two-part article referred to the report presented by Arch. Joyce Mananghaya at the annual WHS Committee session in Seville, Spain last week: “I bring good news! The WH Committee will consider removing the Ifugao Rice Terraces from the List of WH in Danger… I am so happy because we have really worked hard there at UNACOM encouraging Ifugao to address the corrective measures.”

The other Committee Members likewise made their interventions:

KENYA concurs with Sweden – “Two years ago the situation was desperate. The Philippines is showing example that we can succeed.”

MOROCCO questioned the whole process of removing properties from Endangered List – “This has to be defined. The committee should decide if a site is to be removed from the endangered list. However, international assistance to these communities is needed to help them in this endeavor.”

Mr Giovanni Boccardi, World Heritage Centre Asia and the Pacific Section Chief concluded: “The Philippines submitted a report addressing almost all the corrective measures of the property. It is very important to consider the extent of multi-sectoral work that has prepared the desired State of Conservation, which is being reviewed. This is a commendable effort to be used as basis for removal of the Ifugao Rice Terraces from the World Heritage Endangered List.  Additional Emergency Assistance for typhoon Emong victims (which destroyed several Rice Terrace paddies and irrigation systems) is recommended for approval. The Twinning Program was initiated with excellent results.”

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