The food was the owner’s version of Mexican fare, and everyone savored it – chili con carne, tacos, frijoles and refritos, tamales, enchiladas, guacamole, machos and steak. But the ambience was magical, and Nina’s Papagayo, the only restaurant serving Mexican food at the time, caused the awarding of its owner, the late Nina Villanueva, a citation from the tourism industry as "ambassador of goodwill."
Nina was a vivacious lady, who was born in Shanghai to a Peruvian couple, was brought to Manila at age 9, and studied at Holy Ghost College. Her daughter Connie Lacson reflects on her mother’s presence: "She had a very good personality, she liked to entertain - admirals and young sailors, movie stars, celebrities , company executives – everyone who stepped into her restaurant."
From that hole-in-the-wall on Mabini, Nina’s P expanded to Subic and Olongapo and Guam. When Nina died in 1991, Subic and Clark were closed down after the termination of the US-Philippine military bases agreement, and the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo. Nina’s P had by then moved to Makati. But a "modified" Papagayo is now on the second floor of Villanueva Building on Makati and Jupiter avenues.
Today, Papagayo (without the name Nina) is on the second floor of the Villanueva Building at the corner of Makati and Jupiter avenues. The food is "a fusion of the old and the new," says Connie, who runs the place with her sister Olivia and Connie’s husband, former airline pilot Jimmy Lacson. So in addition to the Mexican fare served at the Old Nina’s P, there are delectable Thai dishes, and a few selected Filipino favorites, like chicken-pork adobo and kare-kare, on specific days.
The old Papagayo favorites are there – from appetizers (jumbo quesadillas to tacos, burritos, chili con carne and fajitas.) Rib Eye steak is a best-seller, and a favorite of former Congressman Amado Bagatsing when he drops by with his friends. Pescado del Mar (Fillet of mahi mahi drizzled with capers and anchovy sauce), steak ala pobre, callos and lengua are prepared by cooks who have been with the Papagayo establishment for 40 years.
The Thai house specialties include Gai How Bai Toey (chicken in pandan leaves), Peht Thai Style (boneless slices of duck marinated in spices, smothered with young corn, water chestnuts, mushrooms, carrots and green beans), chili deep-fried groups with sweet sauce, tenderloin with ginger stir-friend in Oyster sauce.
Of curries there’s aplenty – yellow, green or red – for shrimp, beef, pork, chicken, duck and vegetables. Rice noodles come with choices of meats and vegetables. Fried rice with aromatic toppings, and sugar-free deserts include gelatin and tapioca.
An eat-all-you-can buffet of noodles and spicy ingredients is offered lunchtime. Plans are afoot to have a live music group perform Friday evenings, says Olivia, who who is charge of special events, while Connie and her husband Jimmy Lacson, a former airline pilot, is behind management of food and kitchen services. Ice cream enchiladas, a crepe burrito, will be served soon, says Connie.
Nina’s Papagayao habitués have been seen at the new Papagayo: Boy Mendoza (whose favorite is rib eye steak), Jess Mesina, former airline pilot Frank Puzon, Louie Gonzales, Contractor Botong Tecson and wife; Dra. Gina Tecson with her kids, Jun and Lorna Serla, former flight stewardess Norma Escano, Leni Reyes, avid horse owner Butch Puyat, Philracom chair Jimmy Dilag, and golf enthusiast Lito Aling.
Frequenting the restaurant are Serge Montinola, Ricky Vargas, and Tony and Cora Evangelista. Ces Mabagot loves the burrito – "better than the burrito in any pizza house," says a customer. Willy and interior designer Marion Coscolluela and Gerard and Tessa Coscolluela, Net Cabuchan, Nina Paras and famed ballroom queen Becky Garcia pop up at Papagayo without advance notice.
The "old" glamorous friends of Nina eat there: Rosemarie Gil, Barbara Perez, Amalia Fuentes, Daisy Romualdez, Liberty Ilagan, and Minda Feliciano. Ricky Vargas, Atty. Claro Santamaria, Charlie Gorayeb, former CREBA president, and Bebot Laurel (mother of designer Rajo Laurel) have eaten there, too.
Olivia’s friends at the Alabang Country Club Ladies Golf chapter, have been over at the place – Melanie Villar, Marianne Rodett, and Gilda Badong.
Nina Villanueva passed away in 1991, and both her daughters Connie and Olivia don’t hesitate to say that she said she did not think they were going to run Nina’s P her way, although Connie was already running Dino’s, an Italian restaurant also owned by Nina. "If you operate the restaurants, don’t use the name Nina," she told them. She’ll be surprised that her daughters enjoying running the Makati establishment, as well as Playa Papagayo Inn, a 15-rooom beach front resort, which has two restaurants – Cantina, which serves Mexican food, and Playa Papagayo, which serves Thai and Filipino food.
Connie admits it’s her sister Olivia who has inherited some of their mother’s ebullience. "Olivia is a chip off the old block – with her bubbly personality," and Olivia says, "Connie has our mother’s business sense."
To recapture the old Nina Papagayo ambience, there’s going to be a live band or a singer doing Mexican music on Friday nights. Then there might be dancing, too. Just like the old days – in a fusion of old and new. E-mail: dominimt2000@yahoo.com