MANILA, Philippines - Since the start of his career in 2007, delicate drapery in sophisticated silhouettes by Martin Bautista has been the go-to for chic affairs, whether by A-list celebrities or socialites, when they want to portray an understated strength in femininity, to standout while being completely at ease. For spring-summer 2016, Martin drops a new collection reflecting that true strength is drawn from inner peace and is evident even at rest.
YSTYLE: What was your inspiration for the collection?
MARTIN BAUTISTA: I wanted to veer away from the girlishness of my collection last season. This time, it’s a little bit boxier, mannish and relaxed. There’s something graphic and bold with the fluidity of the silhouettes — I wanted a younger vibe. I was thinking of what samurais would wear when they’re just home. Not on a fight, just sitting and relaxing in their tatami mats. You know how when a fighter is on break? It’s kind of amazing to see the calmness within them. It’s the same thing when you think of superheroes or Manny Pacquiao or NBA players — you see and find an inner peace when they let their guards down. They also get tired and would want to fit in to something they can lounge in, and just lie around at home. It’s like coming home. And that’s what struck me in doing this collection — women should feel like they’re home when wearing these pieces.
What was on your mood board when you were designing this?
Takahashi Hiroko, ‘90s Japanese anime Sailor Moon, Cardcaptor Sakura and Magic Knight Rayearth. Madonna in the music video for Nothing Really Matters.
If your collection had a soundtrack, what songs would be on it?
Maria Callas, Madame Butterfly, Bjork’s Hyperballad and Stevie Nicks’ Seven Wonders.
We’ve noticed the change of aesthetic in your campaign. What made you decide to go for a group different from your usual go-to?
I wanted a different vibe for this one, a new spirit and that’s how it should represent the new Martin Bautista woman.
You did the makeup for the campaign. What was it like doing your model’s face?
After the shoot, I had terrible back pain! Next time, I should have a makeup chair for the model. I just did it for fun. I had a great time!
How did you decide on the beauty look for your model?
I just wanted to make her look like she did her own makeup. The collection has a Japanese manga undertone to it so I definitely wanted to use some color. Healthy glowing skin, strong feathery brows, warm brown gilded lids with terracotta matte shadow on the base matched with a nude peachy lip and another look with a berry pink lip.
What’s your favorite piece from the collection?
The sage green off-shoulder top. We had to create multiple sample pieces for it until we achieved the perfect structure. Draping in stiffer fabrics is such a pain, but the result was beautiful! I can’t wait for my clients to try this top!
Describe your collection in one word.
Serene.
This is your 19th collection; how do you think you have grown since your first?
I started when I was 21. Next year I turn 30! I’m not getting younger anymore but it’s great because I have a better understanding of what women really want, I understand the quality and the demands of their lives and my job is to enhance that. I still use the same techniques from my first collection, but always giving it a fresh and new attitude.
You have been M.I.A. on the runways the past few seasons. Why so?
The next day after your runway show, all the runway photos will be up online, right? For me, it’s more convenient that you have your own time and you have control of everything. Plus, I get to do the model’s makeup! It’s more fun, I guess.
What’s next for Martin Bautista?
Maybe a new way of presenting a collection. Next season, we’ll see!
Photos by RALPH MENDOZA
Styled by PHILIPPA ANDREN
Hair by ETHAN DAVID
Modeled by SARA GRACE KELLY