Welcome to the dollhouse

The Manila Fashion Festival closed the spring/summer 2015 designer circuit.

In the style of surrealist imagery and a return to childlike enthusiasm,

YStyle walks us through our picks for five outstanding collections.

Anthony Ramirez: Machu Picchu

MANILA, Philippines - Anthony Ramirez was inspired by the colors of Machu Picchu and the culture of the Inca Empire in Peru. His collection read as conceptual yet still managed to be practical and fully-realized for ready-to-wear. The colors were definitely Peruvian – featuring pops of orange, yellow, bright red, electric blue, tempered with stark black and white. The strength of his collection was rendered in the shapes he achieved using neoprene as influences of scuba were present throughout.

Jaz Cerezo: Linea

Designer Jaz Cerezo made a play on the luxury of simple lines. The collection was inspired by the severity of black ink on crisp white paper, bold and thin strokes, sketches and random doodles. The effect read clearly on the runway as sharply cut fabrics were rendered into bold shapes, angular almost – rectangular pieces of fabric draped ingeniously on the body.  Spanish influences were also made apparent with laser-cut laces sewn into bell sleeves and brocade pants in the style of a matador.

Vania Romoff: Uptown Cheek

Inspired by youth and modernity, designer Vania Romoff offered a polished take on the ubiquitous “uptown girl” with a contemporary sensibility. The long gowns and signature ball skirts made way for shorter hems and smart trousers. These clothes aren’t meant to just sit pretty.  The “cheek” came in the shape of reversed cutaway collars, draped faux-cardigan sleeves, various iterations of her signature bow, and a novel use of pearls and floral paillettes. The Vania Romoff woman wears clean lines tempered in luxe fabrics, but for this season, a study on texture was also in play.

Chris Diaz: Grit

Known for his romance and dreamlike femininity, Chris Diaz explored the outdoors for S/S ‘15. Inspired by the grit of mountain hiking, the designer offered an intersection between his signature romantic aesthetic with the rigors of extreme sport. The collection began with a play on color and a utilitarian sensibility, made with satin and laminated chiffons. But the pieces really took flight when the true marriage of his two inspirations came together. Featuring hand sewn flowers and crystal embellished harnesses, his luxe sportswear made a strong case for modern romanticism.

Renan Pacson: Sort Sol

Conceptual designer Renan Pacson was inspired by ominous migration patterns and flight for his S/S ‘15 offerings. The aesthetic is simple pieces layered together to make a stronger statement, sportswear in a bid to protect one’s self from the demands of everyday life. Fleeces and cottons were mixed with mesh overlays, shapes took the form of asymmetrical drapes and unconventional tailoring. The final effect was convincing, layering as a means for modern protection.

Photos by PATRICK DIOKNO, Styled by DAVID MILAN, Words by MARTIN YAMBAO, Assisted by FRANCINE GACRAMA, Make-up by ANACLETA PAREDES and PONG NIU of MAC Cosmetics, Hair by Bench Fix, Modeled by JOGILE and SARA of Elite Manila, All shoes from SM Parisian