Ever since Robin Wright’s super sleek backless jumpsuit walked the Emmys red carpet, nothing was the same again. This will go on for a couple months, I would think — a renewed fascination with clean lines, sharp curves and overall sleek dressing, Claire Underwood style. The masculine female is not going anywhere and neither are boxy jackets, crisp fabric, and the cropped ‘do. There was lots of white, too, perhaps as a farewell nod to spring and a hint at a less-bleak autumn, fashion-wise.
UK-based label Reiss presents an autumn/winter collection with similar tendencies, toying with the idea of “modern femininity” with decidedly slim, sleek and sharp silhouettes. It is one of the four main segments of the collection, which is inspired by muses Françoise Dorléac and Charlotte Gainsbourg, both effortlessly chic and strong. The entire collection draws from the ‘40s but is infused with early ‘90s pieces and attitude. Film noir is also referenced and crossed with hints at Brutalist architecture — much like Lena Heady a.k.a. Cersei Lannister’s assymetric-everywhere structured gown, on the flipside of the Robin Wright coin.
The collection is limited-edition, and is composed of four stories revisited from the Reiss archives and given a modern spin. “Reinstatement of Origin” makes use of clean leather, quilted satin, knits, wool and chiffon in angular geometries and clean forms. “Sunlight & Wysteria” invokes the ethereal for its feminine and fragile looks, detailed with intricate appliqués, hand-finishing, chiffon layering, soft plisse, and saturated neutrals. “Fallen Angel” is decidedly black-tie, with elongated silhouttes, sharp tailoring, feathers, fringing and beads for femme fatale results. And finally, “Nocturne in Blue & Grey” is all about adornment, decadence, ruffles, metallic embellishments and ornate stud-work.
I don’t know about you, but although there is no “fall” on these shores, the idea of it coming makes me giddy. Call me basic, but no-frills, purposeful dressing is just my thing — so are colors with names that make people sad, like slate, alloy, chalk and alabaster. I’m sure you can take a little bit of gloom — and don’t mind dressing for fall without the promise of cold weather. It’s not crazy at all. In fact, it’s pretty basic.
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In the Philippines, Reiss is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc. (SSI), a member of The SSI Group, and will open its first store in Rustan’s Makati in October; and Shangri-la Plaza, Central Square and Greenbelt 5 this year.