Sportswear stands out in somber ombrés and grays for menswear
The evening suit throws in the towel for spring/summer 2014 and bows to the seemingly unstoppable winning streak of sportswear, which has, of late, proven itself versatile season after season. For menswear, it appeared in the collections of many Philippine Fashion Week regulars, including Edwin Tan, Anthony Nocom, M Barretto, Norman Noriega and Ulysses King, in varying interpretations.
In terms of color, bold shades that are usually revived in the summer give way to a somber yet fresh palette reminiscent of the beach during those last few seconds of day — cool blues, washes of gray, and glints of amber, olive and white. Cuts were relaxed and masculine, and pieces were refreshingly wearable.
Edwin Tan’s sporty suit ensemble, which came, from collar to hem, in a delicious shade of navy, was a standout on the runway, while his cool grays anchored the collection. Plaid numbers were a surprise twist — and so is a sleeveless leather vest paired with swimwear.
Anthony Nocom presented knee-length pants paired with jackets, also in cool grays. His looks were neat — especially one white-shirt-gray-trousers number — and, despite the muted palette, undeniably wearable for the summer. A single printed jacket was one of the collection’s highlights.
M Barretto’s was one of the more playful collections, when it came to color at least. He incorporated icy melons, cyans and mustards into a palette of blue and white. Nautical hints were present in vests, sweatshirts and bomber jackets, which were paired with ankle length pants and classic sneakers.
Norman Noriega conceded to summer but not without a fight — his tie-dye looks were very military-man-off-duty. Playing with a reserved color palette of charcoal, asphalt, slate and perhaps other derivatives of gray, he injected the summer spirit into his shapes, which were predominantly breezy and non-constricting.
Ulysses King’s printed tank tops, hoodies, shirts and shorts hinted at the ombré skies of dusk. Brown anchored his collection, creating looks evocative of the urban nomad, or a hitchhiker with an aversion to shirts. His collection was dynamic and seemed to have decided to be fun — a good closing collection for the menswear show.
