Joey Samson blurs the lines between masculine and feminine

MANILA, Philippines - Though Joey Samson is the very picture of Zen backstage at the YStyle anniversary party, inside he is far from calm. “I’m very nervous,” he discloses in a voice so even in tone and inflection, it’s easy to suspect he’s telling a joke in a deadpan manner. “I can’t relax until the show tonight is over.”

It’s a common refrain heard from those who are truly good at what they do: that every unveiling of new work is almost as terrifying as the first time. To hear Samson sweating over his 40-look collection “Detour” at the anniversary party of YStyle, the fashion section that not only introduced him to a wide audience but also documented his growth as a designer for the past 10 years, is almost endearing, if not for the fact that he’s dead serious about his vision for the show.

“When Bea Ledesma first approached me around March about presenting a 10th anniversary collection during YStyle’s 10th anniversary event, I was both surprised and scared,” the designer recalls during the earliest days of his latest collection’s conception. “The section is known for its advocacy in featuring fresh, up-and-coming talents so I had thought that for their anniversary, there would be a lot of designers featured, those they’ve worked with through the years; YStyle isn’t only about a single designer. But I guess since it’s a coincidence that we’re both celebrating our respective 10 years, Bea thought it would be a good idea for a presentation. So despite my hesitation, I said yes. Not everyone is given this opportunity, so instead of letting it pass, I took her invitation as a challenge.”

Ideas and concepts were the easy part; what was difficult were their execution and the critical editing that had to be applied. “Some concepts took weeks, even a month to come together. There were times when I realized no matter how long I’ve worked on a look, it’s still hilaw, it’s something I wouldn’t want to present.” The question of whether to abandon or put off an idea for later is a tough, frequent, and necessary one he had to face. “I always advise young designers to keep an open mind, to not be so set on a plan, because that will only lead to frustration when it doesn’t work out or takes too long to pull through. It’s the same with designing: I need to be flexible for what happens unexpectedly. If a concept isn’t working, I must know when to put it aside. Maybe if I revisit it later, that’s when it’ll click.”

After the clothes came the matter of the fashion show, and Samson called on the trusted expertise of his frequent collaborators, stylist Noel Manapat and fashion show director Ariel Lozada. Friends since the early 2000s, the three have perfected the balance between maintaining camaraderie and keeping a discerning eye on all the elements that are needed in staging a fashion presentation. Samson credits the two greatly for how his shows have been seen and received by the public. “I have a lot of respect for their opinions. Even though I had set ideas already on how a collection would look like, our consultations still involve discussions on what piece works best with which; we’re honest with each other on what we feel strongly about. I trust them. I know they both make sure that even as they bring in their expertise, they won’t make the show about what they can do.” It’s a comfortable yet never complacent collaboration, one that keeps Samson on his toes. “Ariel’s music selection alone continues to inspire me, always evoking an emotional reaction and bringing me back to a certain era. That’s a good test of how much a person knows you: when they can suggest new things that will resound with you.”

Fast forward to five months later, and here are Samson, Manapat, and Lozada backstage, with a coterie of models, makeup artists, and various assistants getting ready for the YStyle show. “With ’Detour,’ I’m pushing the idea that clothes should have little differentiation: how what you wear during the day can also be worn at night, and what you wear daily to work can also be worn to functions,” the designer explains. “There’s no longer a strict code to follow on what’s appropriate and what’s not when it comes to clothing.”

And as the collection’s name indicates, all signs point to a fresher view in fashion. The 40 looks that Samson sent down the YStyle runway blur the lines between menswear and womenswear (a Samson hallmark), outerwear and innerwear, structure and softness: long, belted tops worn over tulle skirts in an un-twee fashion; sheer shirts with white piping layered underneath equally sheer jackets or tailored coats; and unexpected combinations of fabrics in a single piece, such as a tulle panel attached to a leather cropped top.

The collection’s name is apt in so many ways, most noticeably in the palette that Samson appropriated: veering from his usual black and gray, ‘Detour’ is about the clean, crisp, yet never boring neutrals of off-white, nude, beige, caramel, and khaki, with a few pieces in gunmetal and magenta and a couple of prints here and there. The designer’s signature tailoring is still evident but it is tempered by the softness of the fabrics he chose, replacing conventional material for something that surprisingly works. A swing coat, for example, looks rich and immaculate in white tulle, and stretchy fabrics such as piqué, jersey spandex, and sheer fabrics made layering pieces fall with relaxed grace, even as voluminous pants are paired with equally voluminous coats. Despite the details — straps, asymmetrical lapels, panels, and fabric collages — that engross the eye, almost none of the looks were tortured, testament to Samson’s creativity and editorial eye. Marching down the runway to the ominous clicks then emotional swells of the scoring provided by Lozada, the clothes effectively hushed the audience of hundreds.

Samson has long created a non-conformist identity in the fashion scene, with pieces that are highly conceptual in their androgynous aesthetic even as they are functional; his latest collection is no exception. “You see a piece you like and it’s no longer important if it was meant to be worn by a man or a woman; it’s the wearer that matters,” he says. “The looks I presented tonight are gender-bending. While there are certain influences from the past that I drew from, I tried to make them look current and fresh. I created them with brave people in mind: people who have enough courage to discover the other side of themselves, those who don’t immediately say ‘That’s not appropriate.’”

With the show done and over with, Samson allows himself some measure of relaxation. To the question of whether “Detour” is an indication of his next design direction, he says, “I’m the type who doesn’t look too far ahead. I take things as they come, one day at a time.” What he’s certain of, after 10 years of turning the Philippine fashion scene on its head, is the progressive nature of his work and his career. While future shows will always be nerve-wracking experiences, Samson also knows he’ll always take on the challenge. “The only way to move forward is to be brave.”