Monochrome beauty: How to create a new look with just one color

MANILA, Philippines - There was a common theme during the fall/winter 2013 makeup trends presentation last Monday with MAC senior makeup artist Amber Dreadon: The ‘90s. Think Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice, which is fitting because Tim Burton appeared to be a major source of inspiration for the looks that key makeup artists Lucia Pieroni, Terry Barber, Petros Petrohilos, Charlotte Tilbury and Tom Pecheux came up with during the fashion week shows in New York, Paris and London.

Based on the different trends this season, the main looks are pared down with an emphasis on a single feature (which Dreadon calls a “reaction to the overdone ‘Instagram beauty,’ with an eye that has 45 different eyeshadows. It’s not an achievable beauty”), which simplifies things for people who can’t tell the difference between a stippling brush and a contour brush. The multi-dimensional monochrome lips and eyes also make life much easier for people who have irrational fears of blending different colors together. MAC named four different trends that emerged from the show: Reb-Elle, Spiritual-Eyes, Au Currant and Perspex-Tive, which we’ll tackle one by one.

Reb-Elle

Makeup artist: Terry Barber for Jean-Pierre Braganza

Black on black eyes, experimenting with textures (like gloss and shimmer) and black hues shot with different colors (i.e. emerald, midnight blue). Think worn-in smokey eye.

“Essentially what it’s all about is having a blown-out eye. It’s much more round than a cat’s eye,” Dreadon explains. “So all you would have to do is still use the fluffy brushes and go really low under the eye.” To transition for the holidays, she advises to “Stick to that shape, then press on something sparkly on the lid to keep it a little bit party and not totally spooky. Put on some false eyelashes, which instantly adds a more feminine effect to the makeup.”

Perspex-Tive

Makeup artist: Charlotte Tilbury for Mugler

This look is less about color and more about skin. It's what most MAC makeup artists refer to as the “mannequin” look, which uses clear lip gloss as the main weapon for creating skin that looked like glass. For those who are squeamish about applying lip gloss on their eyelids and faces, white eyeshadow is an alternative.

For trying the glossy lid look, Dreadon recommends going “for an eye that’s essentially nude and if you’re going to wear gloss, you only need a really small amount. Place it on the middle of the eyelid, then you just let it wear its way out.” If you must wear eyeliner, apply only a very thin line and waterproof mascara. “If you’re not so sure about wearing gloss on the lid, use shadows that will  look wet, like pressed pigments or pressed glitter shadows. Really pushing them in and working them with your fingertips will really have kind of the same effect.” As for using gloss to highlight skin, Amber advises applying a small amount with your fingertips on the highest point of your cheekbone and using a foundation blush to blend. “You need to be careful to blend it out so you don’t see a patch,” she warns.

Au currant

Makeup artist: Romy Soleimani for Kenneth Cole

It’s all about the multi-dimensional lip. Everything else is pared down. While this look took 42 different shades of red to achieve, Dreadon says that it’s achievable with just two to three — it’s all in the technique.

According to Dreadon, you’ll want “your base color first, then you’ll want a slightly deeper tone to just slightly fill in the outer corners, then through the center of the lip a little bit. That way, it’s just kind of pushing everything out into focus. That just means that you can do less with everything else because you have this fabulous statement lip.” For the rest of your face, you can lighten your eyebrows and apply a very thin line of eyeliner, then a thin layer of mascara. To draw more attention to your lips, you can contour your cheekbones in towards the direction of your lips.

Spiritual-Eyes

Makeup artist: Lucia Pieroni for Giles

Pale, translucent skin and spooky-looking eyes. The colors you work with mostly here are nude and taupe. To create the haunting, yet ethereal effect on the eyes, use subtle hints of pink and gray.

“You want to make sure that you bring some color and some beauty to the skin. If you go completely nude and your skin is really matte, then you will look dead, so there has to be a balance. Looking really alive is key,” Dreadon advises. To give your skin a glow, try a highlighting cream like, MAC Strobe Cream. If you don’t have oily skin, it can be used all over the face under foundation, like a moisturizer. If your skin is oily, you may apply over foundation on the highest points of your cheekbones. “Bring some color in, a little kiss of cream blush on the cheeks, not so you can see it — not a dolly cheek — but just so there’s a little bit there,” she adds. A light, single wash of pink over the eyelids finishes off the look.