MANILA, Philippines - If you’re looking for fresh talent to breathe new life into your wardrobe or a new go-to designer for the upcoming round of big events, check this year’s most promising crop of fashion design graduates from the country’s top four fashion schools. Chosen by their own teachers and mentors, what these kids have up their sleeves will definitely be a refreshing sight on the runway and in real life.
And the nominees are...
Justine Chantelle Abad, 23
Slim’s Fashion and Art School
Contact: 0906-1789486
Describe your garment: It is part of the line I’ve been working on for more than four years, Dorotee Sweetlips. Dorotee Sweetlips designs are mostly, if not all, faithful to the Japanese subculture, Lolita. It is a princess-style Lolita dress made of printed Japanese cotton and adorned with sprays of illusion tulle, delicate lace, and bows.
What was the inspiration behind it? It is very much inspired by Marie Antoinette and her luxurious tea parties, everything a Lolita could ever dream of.
Describe your design aesthetic: Dorotee Sweetlips is a manifestation of dreams, fantasies, and the odd. Wildly plays between the thin borders of what is whimsical and surreal, dainty and innocent, and what is dark and erotic.
Who are your designer heroes? Coco Chanel and Vivienne Westwood: Two independent and strong women who aren’t afraid to break the norm. Also, Japanese fashion designer Naoto Hirooka for being simply talented and original.
Who is/are your mentor/s? I don’t have specific mentors, but there are my professors from college, Eric Pineda and Gino Gonzales who took interest in my tastes and guided me. There’s also my instructors from Slim’s, Pablo Mendez and Mark Higgins who helped me learn to go out of my comfort zone from time to time. And my dressmaking teachers from Slim’s as well, Ms. May and Ms. Lydia from whom I learned my pattern-making and high-sewing skills. I was nurtured by different kinds of talents and, for that, I’m really grateful.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received? I can’t remember any personal advice that struck me, but there’s this phrase that Ms. Sandy Higgins told us during a general assembly at school: “You don’t have to make others look bad for you to look good. Look good because you are good.
Bryan Peralta, 24
Fashion Institute of the Philippines
Contact: 0905-2534786
Describe your garment. Box paneled shirt in crepe and reverse-side brocade pleated pants.
What was the inspiration behind it? It was the fabric that excited me. Here was this dainty, brightly colored brocade but on the other side, it was even more beautiful! All these loose, chaotic threads are the complete opposite of its composure outside so I turned them into these basic shapes like pants and paneled shirts. This is part of my second collection, which I call “Looseness of Association.†My graduation collection called “Querencia†is completely different but similar in spirit. It was a truly memorable first in which I learned that a collection is not merely about transference of one design element from one garment to another but a story told in different ways. It was then that I discovered a liking for non-conventional materials like vinyl.
Describe your design aesthetic. I love making clothes that have functional details such as pockets, collars, proper closures. At the same time, I try to make use of unconventional materials in clothing just to make it a little more fun. Mostly, I get inspired by interesting textured fabrics and seeing them as actual clothes. I also love playing around with patterns and tweaking them into a more updated look.
Who are your designer heroes? I love Haider Ackermann’s craziness with draping, Jonathan Saunder’s tailoring, Thomas Browne’s humor, and John Galliano’s theatrics.
Who is/are your mentor/s? Veejay Floresca for his design and business skills. He is really talented! More than that, he has a good heart. I also look up to my FIP Makati mentors: Aram Loe, Ched Dalogaog, Marjo Cruz, Mark Dela Peña and Karina Nash.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received? A teacher once told me that more than fashion designers, we should be fashion innovators. There is always something new to create, and that inspiration is everywhere!
Slim’s Fashion and Art School
Contact: 0917-3916516
Describe your garment. A reinterpretation of East-meets-West — a draped overcoat in brocade with red leatherette skirt. The top can be worn inside out.
What was the inspiration behind it? Asian cinema, ‘40s femme fatale characters in film noir, rigid draping.
Describe your design aesthetic. Chameleon-like. My muse is constantly changing. I go from from feminine to androgynous, from deconstructed to tailored. Who knows? I could be doing menswear. I believe that not being boxed in one particular “design aesthetic†is a good ground for creativity. But the starting point for me will always be the fabric: its print, texture, color palette and ability to drape. Then I start on a storyboard and design later on.
Who are your designer heroes?
Too many, actually! If I narrow it to four it would be Haider Ackermann, Proenza Schouler, Armani and Rick Owens.
Who is/are your mentor/s?
My former mentors were John Herrera from Fashion Institute Philippines and Mark Higgins, a painter and co-director of SLIM’s.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received?
I actually graduated last year. The best advice I’ve gotten is to streamline and de-clutter your ideas. When you’re young, there’s a tendency to put in everything, that your ideas lose coherence. And learn to listen.
JM Rosario, 23
De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde School of Design and Arts
Contact: 0926-7456509
Describe your garment. I tried combining form and flow and made them go perfectly well together for my design. I designed the skirt with a distinct form and made the top a bit loose and relaxed. I added embroidered details on the top to make the whole ensemble more visually appealing.
What is your inspiration behind it? I was inspired by the form and color of a particular moth and also by the fluidity and flow of water; thus the title of my collection: “La Falena dell’Acqua†(The Moth of the Water). It is part of my collection for our graduation fashion show entitled “Alter/ed Perspective.†There wasn’t really a specific theme in coming up with our grad show collection. We were given the chance to express our own vision as a designer in any way we want. I decided to come up with a collection that stays true to who I am as a designer.
Describe your design aesthetic. I draw inspiration from almost anything I find interesting, from a time in history to the wonders of nature and everything in between. I like to design classy, feminine and romantic type of clothes mostly for women. As much as possible, I like my designs to be very wearable. I also like to play with silhouettes and incorporate an oriental feel to my designs. Adding details is one of the things I usually do to finish the whole look.
Who are your designer heroes? There are actually a lot. Elie Saab, Carolina Herrera and Zuhair Murad, just to name a few.
Now that you’re graduating and about to enter the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received so far? Simple: Be humble and treat people with utmost respect.
School of Fashion and the Arts
Contact: dan.concepcion@gmail.com
Describe your garment. My look consists of a raglan sleeve shirt and draped skirt in a color blocked, cloud print knit.
What was the inspiration behind it? The image of an elusive sky. I wanted to show, trap and conceal the clouds and the blue expanse in between the seams and drapes of two separate pieces. This look is from the collection I am currently developing, entitled “The Ride with You.†It draws ideas from the experience of seeing a new terrain from the back of a motobike. Interestingly, the sky, despite its omnipresence, still managed to elude my view in the tunnels, buildings and kites. It was one of the poignant insights that struck me on that bike ride; so much so that it moved me to make this particular look.
Describe your design aesthetic. I love playing with structure. Building shapes, adding fullness and manipulating style lines to construct a garment that excites me.
Who are your designer heroes? I look up to Cristobal Balenciaga, Claude Montana, Raf Simons, Salvacion Lim-Higgins, Cesar Gaupo, Jojie Lloren and Gian Romano. These are craftsmen who know how to build pieces and execute them in the most (seemingly) effortless style.
Who is/are your mentor/s? I am very fortunate to be working for Gian Romano as his assistant.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received? Gumawa lang nang gumawa. As an over-thinking maker, I spend a lot of time just conceptualizing ideas. My teachers from SoFA and my own mentor advised me to work on these designs and execute them into actual garments instead of tentatively putting them together in my head. So far, my experience, however limited, has proven this true: your designs are best evaluated on an actual human body. Devoting time to creating also helps you hone your craft and find your own design voice.
Irene Subang, 28
School of Fashion and the Arts
Contact: 0915-2894369
Describe your garment. It’s a black satin backless long gown with double high collar and detachable Swarovski cross pendant.
What was the inspiration behind it? I loved the painting by Heironymus Bosch, “The Garden of Earthly Delights,†and thought it would make a great and challenging inspiration. But this piece has a peculiar story all its own. This design was inspired by a dream. The graduation screening of our collection was nearing and I kept pressing myself to come up with a design for my finale. I knew I wanted it to be all black but I was thinking what other silhouette I could use to complete my collection. My mind refused to work so I allowed myself to call it a day and that is when I dreamt up this design. I woke up right away to recapture the idea and place it on paper before I lost it to my sub-conscious.
Describe your design aesthetic. I veer towards periods and dark themes. I find beauty in the chronicles of history. Through my internship with designer Puey Quiñones, my design sensibilities has been inclined to the art of draping. And it is a discipline that I have yet to master.
Who are your designer heroes? Hands down, I have to say the late Alexander McQueen! But I am also a fanatic for the brilliance of Viktor & Rolf, Olivier Theyskens, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan. Also, I think John Galliano still makes women look fabulous!
Who is/are your mentor/s? Puey Quiñones and my SoFA instructor, Danilo Franco.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received? “If you don’t have passion for something, you shouldn’t be doing it in the first place.†— Alexander McQueen. I was reading about McQueen when I came across what he said. I guess I have to keep reminding myself that every now and then. The fashion industry is vicious and if I lose sight of my purpose, I might as well be eaten up or crushed by it.
Fashion Institute of the Philippines
Contact: 0916-3091189
Describe your garment. It’s a short dress with an opening detail in the chest area, layered with a sleeveless coat with printed lining. It’s sexy, chic and fun.
What was the inspiration behind it? I was inspired by Japanese Geishas. I turned the idea of kimonos into something women could wear today. Geishas represent beauty, grace and elegance, characteristics that I want my wearer to feel she has.
Describe your design aesthetic. I really wanted to create a persona in which women are very much empowered through my garments. I may say that I am a minimalist at one point and a maximalist at another. It really depends on the mood and inspiration.
Who are your designer heroes? Alexander McQueen, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.
Who is/are your mentor/s? Aram Loe, Ched Dalogaog, Marjo Cruz, Mark Dela Peña, Iross Santos and Jojo Lopez — they were my FIP instructors who helped me build my vision and capability to make clothes.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received? “Keep on doing what you believe in and that will bring you to where you want to be,†advice from my dad before he died.
JC Villalva, 25
De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde School of Design and Arts
Contact: 0917-7933588
Describe your garment. It is composed of four different pieces: a basic dress, neckpiece, corset and skirt. All of the materials are thick, but are purposely made into small pieces, paneled and layered like the exterior of insects.
What was your inspiration behind it? The process of arthropods getting rid of their exoskeletons. Coming of age for bugs, basically. I design based on my mood, so my theme for this collection is maturation. You could say I am going through that in my life right now.
Describe your design aesthetic. I do not have a specific aesthetic. It can be a problem, I know, but I would like to be known as someone who adapts and consistently delivers fashions that look good. That or I’m only making an excuse because I’m still on a quest to find my identity as a designer.
Who are your designer heroes? Alexander Wang, Martin Margiela, Christopher Kane, Nicolas Ghesquiere and Dries van Noten. The list goes on!
Who is/are your mentor/s? In choosing what’s best for me, I would say my professor back in UP, Raquel Florendo. In life in general, of course, my Mama.
Now that you’re entering the fashion industry, what is the best advice that you’ve received? Read a lot of books and take a lot of risks.
Photos by JOEY MENDOZA, Makeup by HANNA PECHON and SHARON S. MALIG for Shu Uemura, Hair by KIM DIOLATA and JORY PALMES for Bench Fix, BOGGY DIAZ(0915-9098864) and DIVAD MEDINA (0917-5698283), Modeled by KIM FERNANDEZ and RODINA LUSPO for CalCarrie’s, Shot at the CAPELLINI and MDF ITALIA Special thanks to FRANCISCO LUMBAD