Subtle glamor trumps over-the-top styling

MANILA, Philippines - A bit of extravagance is always in order for a show like Grand Allure, which can be tricky because excess and elegance don’t always go hand-in-hand. Few designers managed to subdue the need to impress with outrageous styling and overdone designs. Sheer was a common plot in many of the sartorial stories told that night, among which was Cherry Samuya Veric’s white embellished gowns in figure-flattering, classic shapes, with patterns reminiscent of rock salt formations and floral forms; and Nolie Vineza, who alternated sleek and voluminous silhouettes in a subdued palette of pastels, eggshell, almond and ivory in hand-woven fabrics and lace. Breaking pageant-y monotony mid-show was June Pugat, who veered from the literal florals of spring and used folded synthetic silk cocoon to wrap the body in lightweight petal shapes, also offering a welcome respite from beading and sheen. Popo Go went with iridescent-meets-metallic gowns that came with intricate bodices that hoist the female figure. Gil Macaibay remastered Grecian drapings with fabrics in rich hues like salmon and deep mauve. Then there was the grand production of Fanny Serrano, who went with a butterfly theme, dressing the models in vivid, printed maxi dresses and woven headdresses.