Fashion report from Paris: An eclectic mix of inspirations

Wooyoungmi

MANILA, Philippines - A large chunk of the Wooyoungmi men’s spring-summer 2013 show was about printed fabric — big for women’s fall-winter looks, but not as popular for men’s spring-summer. Floral-printed coats and pants were like a fresh breeze; and masculine enough in navy, black or gray florals to be worn by those normally averse to “feminine” prints. In light cottons, the looks can go from city to country. Checks and other prints were also seen on the runway, as were bags with the same prints.

Pascale Millet

The large PM logo and the gritty backdrop of the show were contrary to the designer’s feminine fall-winter 2012/2013 looks, which included ruffles and simple skirts. The silhouette was long and lean, to flatter a woman’s shape; it was evident that the designer liked his fabric long and flowing, in pants and long dresses that grazed the floor. Short skirts, as well, were cut in an A-line. While some pieces were shaped at the waist, the eye was led naturally down the models’ bodies. What looked like a stonewashed print stood out; this, apparently, was meant to match the background, or vice versa.

Rynshu

There was something you could not quite put your finger on in the Rynshu men’s spring-summer 2013 collection, which looked to be part-grunge, part-punk, part-glam — and included pieces like Bermuda shorts. A metallic bomber-ish jacket was on trend for the season, while dark roses on white and metal studs seemed more of a hard metal music genre. Nevertheless there was a clear feeling of free-spiritedness and romance in the air, seen in rebellious black, floral-cum-butterfly-printed shirts and lace-up boots.

V.SP

The V.SP of Vespucci collection was awash in leather, wool, fur and other sumptuous materials for fall. Some jackets looked as if they were wrapped around the body from one long piece of fabric, and hung in a chic and cozy-looking manner. Others opened softly in front, as if naturally falling on the body. In dark colors — gray, olive and black — these were wearable and elegant pieces that retained a down-to-earth feel.

Smalto

The Smalto spring-summer 2013 presentation had the models lounging about, styled as if in a live fashion editorial. “We wanted to do something different,” said one of the show’s producers. The interesting pieces included jackets that were matched with slim-fitting cardigans and shirts with banded collars: dressy-casual and light. A bomber jacket looked easy-to-wear.

Hardy Amies

Jackets and pants done in colors to soothe — black, olive, gray and white — and in proportions straight from the shoulder down, looked simple yet luxurious. Navy jackets, including a brighter blue with black lapels, were a modern take on the classic tux — something 007, replete with the physique of Daniel Craig, would look spiffy in. Navy and white printed fabrics were chic.

Miharayasuhiro

In an interview before the show, the designer said, “I like Dries Van Noten.” A blogger walking out of the show commented, “I think I saw that in a Dries Van Noten collection a few seasons ago!” — and thus, it seems, Yasuhiro’s statement had a context. There were some Western-influenced looks, apt for the show’s title, “Wild at Heart,” as well as python-printed fabric, and graffiti prints. Shoes, the designer’s first love, ranged from sneakers to loafers and short boots.

Songzio

It harked back to the 1980s, with linen in looser cuts: more pronounced shoulders and baggier pants. There was also an apparent reference to Asian culture: cheongsams and silhouettes of martial arts uniforms. And then there was an air of vacationing; these were not clothes for the office, clearly — what with the espadrille-like shoes — but for southern seaports, sunny, driving with the top-down.

Pierre Cardin

In a long display of bright-colored blouses with winglike sleeves and black sweaters with neon-tipped forms and edges, the designer’s ‘60s-cum-futuristic aesthetic for which he is known was crystal clear. A cropped denim jacket then gave way to pairs of pants that looked like versions of the Capoeira pant cut mid-shin, and finally, an array of jackets and shirts to mix and match with jeans or T-shirts.