MANILA, Philippines - The future we conjure for menswear lies in the use of more embellishment and new use of materials like knit to mix with staples like leather, cotton, and wool, as seen in the collections of Jerome Lorico, Kermit Tesoro, and Gian Romano.
The three make up the second presentation under Men’s Week, a part of Style Origin under the collaborative efforts between Ayala Malls, Philippine STAR, and Tiger 22, supported by Visa, Globe, and Samsung, that showcases the fusion of modern design, fashion, music, and style.
Taking off from his strength in using knits of indigenous materials and his keen eye for embellishment, Jerome Lorico launches deliberately into what could only be imagined as the urban nomad. The softness of his knits mixed with his construction and delicate ornamentation by way of tribal ornaments reminiscent of Aztec bird elements and Egyptian collars. Interestingly enough, Lorico still keeps on-trend with the rest of the globe with his subtle use of athleticism by way of his calf-high striped socks, a touch that ties in nicely with his knitwear. Striking pieces include the heavily embellished armor-like metallic cut pattern over knit, surprise fringe detailing on the breast pocket and sleeves, and his witty use of knits slung over the head a la pharaoh’s headdress or, in reverse, knit headcap extensions that look like dreadlocks. As one of the more conceptual designers of his generation, and one who has exhibited in style cities like Tokyo and London, one can easily feel how Lorico, while keeping to his rootedness in use of locally produced knit (and in this collection, as inspired by a tribal group in the South), pairs his unique aesthetic with the pulse of the rest of the world.
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Gian Romano: The modern rebel
What is it about these ruffians that we can’t help but love? With effortless cool and dangerous underpinnings, the modern rebel of Gian Romano likes to layer with scarves and leather and wears their trousers loose from the hip to knee then clinging to the leg towards the hemline. The styling does not seem contrived at all, perhaps owing to the fact that Gian has been entrenched in this brand of devil-may-care confidence for as long as we can remember. It’s the kind of vibe you get from the laissez-faire attitude around Central Saint Martins in London, where he studied, or the dynamism of downtown New York where he apprenticed for Three Asfour (formerly Asfour). Among our favorites are the citrus gradient in his scarves and sleeves, the grey monochrome laborer ensemble, and the easy-going mix of khaki and leather. As one of the more wearable collections for this show, Romano exercises keen restraint, so much so that even if he goes over the edge, he’ll still be within bounds of what we envision as cool.
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Kermit Tesoro: Medieval androgyny
Visually arresting, Kermit Tesoro’s collection brings to mind medieval pageantry in the cut and manner of his tights. Known for his darker and demi-gothic approach that borders on sculptural (case in point: his work with artist Leeroy New for the Lady Gaga x Gilt collaboration and his skull-heel and oil spill shoes), his first foray into menswear maintains this nocturnal sensuality that takes flight from the deep, dark, and underground. This time, he takes on motifs of the Knights of Columbus replete with embellished gorget, assassin’s demi-veil, and the crusader’s robe. He then juxtaposes these seemingly Catholic elements with paganism, referencing Wicca by way of his muse Xtina Superstar and the shroud-like covering over his graphic pattern. He ends the collection on an interesting note: the Latin cross superimposed on shiny fabric suggestive of chainmail. At certain parts of the collection, one cannot help but think how androgynous some pieces could be, especially with Tesoro’s use of the robe over sheer black tights. Throughout his relatively short yet very prolific career in fashion, Tesoro once again proves how his narrative continues to verge on the visual and how his menswear collection is a taste of things yet to come.
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Men’s Week is a project under Style Origin, a collaborative effort between Ayala Malls, Philippine STAR and Tiger 22, supported by Visa, Globe and Samsung. On May 5, designers Nixon Marquez, Norman Noriega, and M Barretto will be presenting their collections at TriNoma, 6 pm.