Facing the problem when the problem is your face
MANILA, Philippines - For years, moisturizing my skin was the skincare practice of utmost importance, in my naïve belief that it would be enough protection against the ravages of time and the elements.
One never really gets the real score on their skin situation, though, until they go under the scrutiny of skin experts.
At the Dermalogica clinic at Heaven on the Fifth, Rustan’s Makati, clients are given a thorough examination of their facial skin for the therapists to know the kind of facial treatment they need. In my case, I’ve long known of my (genetically) dry skin, which I try to improve by drinking about a liter of water every day and slapping on moisturizer day and night. My skin turned out to be a bigger mess than that, though.
Through Dermalogica’s facial mapping system that divides the face and the neck into 14 distinct areas, I learned that not only is my skin dehydrated in some parts but it is also quite congested in certain areas — on the T-zone, most notably. “You have blackheads and whiteheads, and also a pimple on your forehead, Ma’am,” my solicitous therapist Reylyn informed me. “You also have dilated capillaries on your cheeks, plus some dark areas around your eyes.” She mentioned a couple more of flaws but my corroded self-esteem had already shut down my function to listen by that time.
The harsh light in a dermatology clinic may seem like the very devil at first, but knowledge is, as they say, half of the battle. It turns out that I have normal to oily skin (a big surprise), though there are decidedly dry areas that I need to pay more attention to. Second, the lack of pustular pimples on my cheeks and nose doesn’t mean that these zones are in the clear; they are still sebum-rich deposits clogged with comedones — lots of it based on the squiggles Reylyn drew on the face map to indicate their location. Third, I may not have eye bags — a boon — but I have dark circles that I have been unaware of all this time. “Those are caused by dehydration and hyperpigmentation, Ma’am,” Reylyn informed me. These conditions are things I should pay attention to whenever I do my beauty ritual and when I buy new skincare products.
Dermalogica’s menu of facial services ranges from straightforward facials to procedures that especially address skin problems like mine. Their Special Skin Care Treatment (P1,450), for example, is designed to cleanse and refresh dehydrated/oily/sensitive/blemish-prone/dry and mature skin, with specific Dermalogica products used to alleviate skin damage.
Of course, with the brand’s 25 years of expertise backing them, the products are formulated to help skin achieve optimum health. Their Special Cleansing Gel, which works for all skin conditions, is a soap-free botanical blend of Quillaja saponaria (soapbark) and calming lavender that lifts away impurities without leaving the skin feeling tight or dry. Its balm mint also calms down skin sensitivity. A spritz of the Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner after cleansing refreshes with its skin-repairing aloe, moisture-binding sodium PCA, and the soothing combination of lavender, balm mint, and arnica. The skin is then ready to be exfoliated with the Daily Exfoliant, also suited for all skin conditions, which dulls debris with its rice-based enzyme powder and balances uneven pigmentation with its Skin Brightening Complex.
Once the skin has been cleaned and cleared, the skin therapists then work on extracting and removing pimples, blackhead, and whiteheads, but without the sharp instruments that are the bane of every facial-dreading individual — they are armed only with gloves and a sponge. A relaxing facial massage is also thrown in to soothe whatever irritation the skin may have from all that handling. After the procedure, the therapists work on restoring the moisture content of the skin with products such as the Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Booster, a revitalizing formula that has a concentrated blend of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, glycolipids, and algae extract to restore the moisture balance of the skin.
Afterwards, clients are given another consultation where the therapists give recommendations on how to do proper daily skincare for their particular skin problems. In my case, there is, of course, the heretofore unknown normal to oily condition of my skin but with dry patches. “Whenever you exfoliate, Ma’am, which you should do twice a week, apply a masque after to soothe the skin and to moisturize the dehydrated areas,” she told me. Dermalogica’s oil-free Skin Hydrating Masque refreshes stressed and dehydrated skin with its bitter orange, hops, rosemary, and horsetail extracts, and its gel formula feels particularly cooling on the delicate eye area, a good follow-up to exfoliation.
Reylyn continued, “For your under-eye circles, we recommend the Age Reversal Eye Complex, which you apply twice a day.” Touted by the brand as a revolutionary reversal of the first signs of skin aging, it contains 0.1 percent strength Retinol, an ingredient long proven for its capacity to reverse the appearance of skin aging and to trigger epidermal cell proliferation. It also has an AGE Smart system of bioactives that help alleviate puffiness (bisabolo, caffeine, and niacinamide), minimize dark circles (fraxinus or European ash extract), and reduce skin sensitivity (Chinese mushroom and licorice root extracts).
At the end of my consultation, I left with my self-esteem still shaky. However, it’s better to know the real deal about my skin than to continue living in what would have been short-lived blissful ignorance. When it comes to caring for the skin, facing the real problems is the first, most important step to take.
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Dermalogica is at Heaven on the Fifth, 5th Level, Rustan’s Makati.
