The disco and biker bar set the stage for fall

TAIPEI — “Every season we get to go art school when we go backstage and work with these unbelievable artists,” says Mac senior makeup artist Luc Bouchard. “It’s not necessarily how to hold a brush but how they create a look.”

Bouchard is hosting the trends presentation of Mac cosmetics, heralding the theme that what’s old is new again, having revisited the ‘60s, reworking the running theme of the natural face (seen in the Amber-gris trend) as well as tweaking the formulas mastered by tough chick icon and new minimalist savant Alexander Wang and making up with disco-inspired looks.

According to Mac Taiwan senior makeup artist Think Ho, who was also present at the Taipei launch, the prevailing theme at the presentation was “personality.”

“Each trend is a result of a creative personality,” he says, noting that each trend took on different characters.

The commonality between the characters is in her unconventional spirit. “It’s about a woman that wants to be powerful and modern in a sense,” Bouchard elaborates. “She’s independent. Can take of herself. Doesn’t wear a look to please anyone. Thanks to globalization, it’s about a unique look, certain strength, and taking power back.”

The takeaway, according to this season’s trend report, is boldness that comes naturally. As Ho intones, “You don’t need to wear much makeup to make a strong impact.”

Prep steps

Bouchard takes us through the steps to get the perfect face: one that’s fresh, naturally dewy and glowing.

Prep the face with Fix Plus to make skin soft and more pliable.

Use Active Softening Lotion from Mac Lightful collection to refine and tauten skin. You can see the difference in texture. It helps even out skin tone.

Apply Face Protect in the T-zone. Helps with pores and glide of foundation.

Around the face, apply moisturizer. When you have oily skin, use oil control to help with excess sebum.

Apply foundation mixed with moisturizer using circular motions. Make it a sheer coat.

For blemishes, use Sculpt Spot concealer because it’s sticky and stays in place right away.

Then use Prep and Prime on T-zone for a matte finish on oily parts.

End with Mineralize Skin Finish in natural around the face, blending what’s already been applied so it’s not cakey.

Modernist

It’s essentially the ’60s reinvented. “If Twiggy is all about the lashes,” says Luc Bouchard, “this is the toned-down version of that.”

The runways of Chloe, Alberta Ferretti, Ferragamo, Elie Saab and Moschino Cheap and Chic were rife with looks riffing on the trend.

Long, lush spidery lashes on an otherwise natural face sets the tone for this modern take on the ’60s. “To make it modern,” says Think Ho, “keep skin fresh. Skip the white eyeshadow Twiggy made famous.”

His trick to create that bold, shiny eye? Use a bold cream color base then apply Mac Lip Glass with brush 242. The texture of the Lip Glass gives the lid a sheeny finish.

 Try out: Mac Black Haute and Naughty Lash, Freckletone lipstick and Studio Moisture Fix

Amber-gris

A mainstay of runways around the world (and seen on the likes of Roland Mouret, Rodarte, Marni, Balmain and Isaac Mizrahi’s catwalks to name a few), this trend celebrates the skin’s natural tones.

“They’re all colors that are naturally present in the skin’s tone including everything from the flesh, amber and brown to purples, khakis and grays,” says Lyne Desnoyers, French artistic director of Mac cosmetics. “They enhance rather than dominate the face, conveying mood more than a definitive feel of makeup.”

Try out: Mac One Of A Kind lipstick, Cheek Pro Sculpting Cream and Sweet Satisfaction Pro Long Eye Shadow

Disco Tech

This game-changing trend is altering the way we think about makeup.

“Before, when we’d talk about color, we’d just focus on one part — the eyes or the lip,” says Think Ho. “Now we find that you can do both, you just need to find a balance.”

Ho’s suggestion is to pair two separate colors of similar intensity, like blue eyeshadow with a magenta lip.

Seen on the runways of Althuzarra, Zac Posen and Brit label Manish Arora, the look pays homage to the best of disco. “It’s for those moments,” adds Ho, “when you’re at the disco and the light hits your face.” “Initially it’s about beautiful skin but then injecting color onto the face in an untraditional manner,” sums up makeup artist James O’Riley.

Try out: Mac Orange Lip Mix, Clear Lip Glass and Pro Long Eye Shadow in Plush

Tough-Love

Disciples of the Alexander Wang school of style are primed for this tough chick trend. “Tough-Love is interesting,” says Ho of the trend, “because it’s about making a girl look like a boy. You actually only need a little bit, like fixing the brow, to make a change.”

The strong, almost-rectangular eyebrow is a hallmark of this look, which could be found on the runways of Acne, DSquared2, Prabal Gurung, Proenza Schouler and, mayor of tough chick city, Alexander Wang.

“I went to Paris and met Alex Box who is responsible for Vivienne Westwood’s show, who did a lot of brow things,” adds Ho. “He used an eyebrow pencil to make the shape then used a 260 brush to fill it.”

Another calling card of the trend is the dominant eye shadow, which rings the eye and extends outward, with hints of punk and the ’90s.

Try out: Mac Lingering and Fling Brow Pencils, Mineralize Eye Shadow in Dark Indulgence and Black Penultimate Liquid Liner

The essentials

Quebec-born, New York-based makeup artist Luc Bouchard gives us the five products every woman must have to be updated for the coming fall trends.

• Prep and Prime Face Protect SPF 50

• Mineralized Skin Finish natural which will give a satiny finish

• Haute and Naughty Mascara is very natural-looking, easy and quick.

• Bold lipstick in magenta or red orange which can be worn sheer or bolder with a satin matte finish

• Prolong eyeshadow in Moleskin, which is very easy to apply. It’s long lasting, versatile and blends well.