Two steps forward, two steps back
A show all about showcasing the talents of some of our young designers, Design Fusion/ Visions and Trends ran along a common theme of how putting different fabrics, concepts and ideas together can produce surprisingly harmonious and beautiful results. Some were successful, some looked tired, but all in all, it was a good day in Philippine fashion.
Collective unconscious
I’m sure they didn’t mean to, but a majority of the designers were running along very similar themes. Almost half of the designers had a futuristic/bondage/tailored look with somber colors, bands, and strategic cut-outs. Aries Lagat, who I admire for his devotion to complex pattern-making construction presented a metallic jersey and charmeuse collection that featured twisted racerback tops and dresses and intricately layered items that can easily transform from day to night. There was a slight sportswear feel to his collection like that of Anna Leah Salvador, whose mixed-media collection reminded me of abstract art. I liked how the gray sweatsuit material fit right in with her houndstooth print. Arnel Zulueta’s collection aimed for futurism but seemed confused. There was obvious puckering in several of his items and a general overall feel of poor construction. Meanwhile, Anthony Cesar Ramirez’s sexy bondage-inspired collection was sexy, sleek and well-made in shades of olive green and black. Switching to swimwear and a more resort-feel futurism, Donn Delantar presented royal blue items with wired collars and draping, hanky dresses, and military-inspired items. Considering that this was supposed to be for fall ‘09, it seemed a bit out of place and not well-edited. Kat Corpus’ collection, meanwhile, felt tired and left you wanting more. Her silver strapless dress with pleats, while seemingly well-made, looked like something you can readily find in department stores. Kat Sy’s infusion of red and local tribal farbrics made her collection pop out more, but was just an average collection. Successfully mixing femininity with impeccable tailoring, Pablo Cabahug’s collection felt powerful and sexy. His body-conscious dresses with sharp shoulders are must-haves for modern women. Young Veejay Floresca’s black and silver collection played with the layering of sheer black over silver. Geometric, clean and well-edited, his collection successfully showcased his skill and aesthetic. Zxander Tan’s graffiti-print fabric seemed inspired by the ‘hood but lacked oomph and the funky vibe of men’s streetwear.
Walking another path
Veering away from the dominant look were a few designers inspired by their own view of fall ’09. In the sea of black, gray and white, Herbert Custodio’s neutral, almost ethereal collection was a breath of fresh air. I loved, loved, loved how he mixed his white cotton fabric with a beigey-peach sheer overlay that made a pantulog fabric suddenly seem elegant and other-worldly. Days after the show, I am still thinking of his collection. Almost everyone had a somber interpretation of the future, but Herbert’s interpretation felt fresh and serene. Don Protacio’s middle-eastern inspired collection with hoodies felt wearable and mainstream. Meanwhile, Jasmine Castelo’s collection seemed without theme and purpose. Adding straw twine àla Hawaiian skirts added even more confusion. His red pantsuit felt like an ukay-ukay find. Simon Ariel Vasquez’s hand-painted tulip collection made me wonder what the possible relevance of tulips could be in the future. Hand-made should be a big deal, but the paintings were uninteresting and made the items look like home-ec projects. The addition of a male model holding an actual bouquet of pink tulips in the end made it seem almost comical. Regine Dulay’s collection reminded me of Survivor and Temptation Island with its earth tones and knot details on unfinished hems. Her collection felt more down-to-earth and like resort-wear.
