Oh dear, the shoulder pad is back!
NEW YORK (AP) — Remember the ’80s, when big hair and even bigger shoulders were the height of chic? The designers at New York Fashion Week won’t let you forget.
Yes, the shoulder pad is back.
Add that to power suits, Robert Palmer style second-skin dresses, dark lipstick and even, at Miss Sixty, acid-wash jeans.
It’s probably safe to say that there were more shoulder pads at Goodwill drop-off bins than at fashion boutiques in recent years.
But big shoulders edged onto the runways of Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg and others as Fashion Week ended its fourth day of fall previews Monday.
“Shoulder pads scare people but remember, runway is a fairy tale,” said Gloria Baume, fashion director at Teen Vogue. “Now we have to figure out how to make it real.”
Done right, though, sharp shoulders can give a new confidence to women left weary by the economy, said Stephanie Solomon, Bloomingdale’s fashion director. “Toughness is confidence. It’s a way of saying, ‘You can’t bring me down.”’
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs’ punk princess was the prom queen with a rebellious streak, the one who wears oversized cardigans with zipper details and a series of tight pencil skirts. She has a few outfits with sexy cutouts and a black, slashed dress that allows flashes of pink and green to peek through.
And, of course, she has the biggest shoulder pads of the week.
Jacobs is considered to be one of the most influential designers in New York, if not the most, so be ready for copycat satin party dresses in hot pink, purple, blue and green in every mall later this year.
Far fewer fashionistas saw the Jacobs show than normal — and the paparazzi missed the typical parade of stars — because the designer cut back the guest list significantly and started the show even before the appointed time on the invitation.
Donna Karan
There’s more to seduction than skin and sin. Donna Karan’s smoldering fall looks left the audience wanting more after a glimpse of bareness from a back-closure keyhole opening or a slit on the back of a skirt.
There was very little that was overtly sexy — and that’s what was so tantalizing: The clothes draped the models just the right way and were made of slinky-yet-sophisticated fabrics. Karan captured strength, but there was also a womanliness that not every designer has embraced this season.
The crowd included White House Social Secretary Desiree Rogers, who had one of the best seats in the house next to Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour.
Carolina Herrera
While everyone else might be obsessed with the ‘80s, Carolina Herrera looked to the decorative elements of the 18th century for the fall collection she debuted Monday.
And the copper hardware that mimicked those old architectural details added the most modern touches to the dominant fitted shape with a tight, high waist.
The mixing of textured silk, reflective jacquard, lace, suede and a recurring floral motif created a luxurious patchwork quilt, and she also created an eye-catching draped wrap with long sleeves that was worn over gowns, many of which had a corset peeking out from underneath.
Betsey Johnson
Can’t afford to have a fete in a recession? Throw a house party!
That’s what designer Betsey Johnson did to show off her fall 2009 looks, unleashing a 25-piece collection inspired by food at her Manhattan showroom, recreated as an apartment.
The theme of the collection was snacks: knitted dresses and tops paired with fringe, sequins and layers of petticoats for frothy skirts resembling something Cyndi Lauper might have worn in the days of “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun.” And Johnson didn’t settle on a morose color palette: her looks ran through colors like a rainbow.
Jill Stuart
The soundtrack to Jill Stuart’s fall runway show could have been “Leather and Lace.” The designer cited French singer Francoise Hardy as an influence, but it was hard not to see at least a little Stevie Nicks in the mix of billowy, sheer chiffon with tough-as-nails motorcycle leather.
The most dramatic and striking silhouettes were her more delicate looks, including a white minidress surrounded by cascading ruffles that turned sexy when it was backlit by the runway lights.
For the more hard-core rock ‘n’ roll girl, there were plenty of black skinny jeans and barely-there tops. And for everyone else, there were Stuart’s short strapless dresses, the bread-and-butter of many of her collections.
Erin Fetherston
A first glance at Erin Fetherston’s mini hoop skirts renders a verdict of cute-but-not-wearable. However, when the designer herself wore a black version of this kooky teacup silhouette, she looked pretty darned cute.
The theme of Fetherston’s show on Sunday was life-size dolls, complete with girlie bows and Swiss-dot gloves. The collection, dubbed “Tinderbox,” was gimmicky, but there was something fresh in the unabashed femininity, which has been a rare sight at the previews of fall styles.
Fetherston embraced delicate tops in chiffon, ruffled necklines and a floral print of a magnolia blossom. She also used a delicate lavender and a rich cranberry color to break up all the black and white.
