The young gent's guide to sartorial glory

MANILA, Philippines - When it comes to mens wear, surveying your surroundings for any semblance of style can be saddening. Sure, guys have started sporting hipper and crisper getups, cuffing their pants — and shorts, even — to their desired lengths. But some guys are still too lazy, or too out of the loop, to know what rules to follow — and when to break them.

Recently, we caught up with San Francisco-trained shirt maker and design blogger Abdul Dimaporo to discuss the no-bull how-to’s of menswear, style, and the importance of consulting a tailor to boost your look.

Swift Tailoring

In a city where the likes of Topman, Muji, and Zara Men remain go-to quarters for accessible menswear, the idea of setting up an appointment with a tailor can seem not only farfetched but frankly, a little out of the way. But, like all things, it pays to explore your discomfort zone sometimes.

If you’re looking for reassurance, you can try asking what a “drop six” means.

“Ask men you trust — your dad, your titos, your lolo, etc.,” advises Dimaporo. “They’ve been around long enough and have had their fair share of good and bad tailors. If a tailor has the respect of your elders, he probably deserves it. But, if you’re looking for reassurance, you can try asking the tailor what a ‘drop six’ means. If he replies by saying, ‘It’s a tailor’s dream,’ I’d say you’re golden. One more thing: a good tailor takes his time and likes to ask questions. The tape measure doesn’t always give ‘true-to-life’ measurements, hence the importance of fittings and feedback on your likes and dislikes of the overall fit.”

Manila’s Finest Tailors

As to finding the right tailor, Dimaporo says that it would depend on what you’re looking for. “I think there are a lot of local tailoring houses that make very clean and solid barongs for any occasion — formal, casual, or office. [Examples are] tailors like Bergamo, Exclusively His, or Kingsmen, just to name a few,” lists Dimaporo.

It’s all about the fit.

“But as far as suits are concerned — unless your name’s Ali Peek and you play Center for the Tropang Texters, or, you happen to be a shoe-in for the Biggest Loser Pinoy Edition – I think you’d have better chances with brand name ready-to-wear.”

Suit Yourself

In terms of formal clothing, Dimaporo still thinks we’re a little behind in the suit-making department. But that doesn’t mean we should stop the search for the perfect tailor.

Compromise on quality if you must, but never proportion.

“I don’t believe the overall process from start to finish is at par, or even close, to the more established tailoring firms overseas,” says Dimaporo. “Case in point, good luck finding a local tailor that knows what a ‘floating canvas’ is, or one that will tell you to never wear a coat with single vents, because it exposes your bum when you put your hands in your front pockets. A good tailor is really like a surgeon, minus the ‘cutting-different-parts-of-your-epidermis’ part. He or she should have the ability to provide solutions for any major problems you may have with fit, and can recommend options for shapes, patterns, and other details that best accommodate your specific body type: square, round, short, tall, athletic, white, black, brown, (and so on).”

Don’t Slack On Slacks

People like Jimi Hendrix might not be your traditional dapper dude but it’s all about a healthy dose of personal style.

For Dimaporo, versatility is important for staples. “You can’t go wrong with a pair of deep navy blue slacks,” advises Dimaporo. “And, I suggest you stay away from polyester or poly-blends. Polyester is artificial cloth, so the quality of its weave is almost like plastic. It doesn’t really provide the wearer with any kind of air-flow, so your body doesn’t breath easy. I guarantee you’ll sweat bullets wearing a polyester shirt and slacks in this climate. Stick with 100% cotton, linen, or a 7 to 8 ounce wool.”

Fit vs. Quality

But at the end of the day, Dimaporo will always prioritize fit over quality. “An old tailor’s dictum goes — ‘compromise on quality if you must, never proportion.’ So if a pair of pants fit you well, throw the usual rules on brand name, selvage, thread-count, price, or any other indicators of good quality out the window. If it’s comfortable and you feel that it fits you the way the gods intended it to fit, then do yourself a favor and buy it.”

Style Philosophy

Good luck finding a local tailor that knows what a “floating canvas” is.

“Everyone knows fashion is temporary,” admits Dimaporo. “That’s a given. It only adds that quick bit of excitement in our lives. Clothing, on the other hand, in its simplest form, is all you really need.”

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Find Abdul Dimaporo on iamdeerhunter.blogspot.com and at his custom shop, White Planes Workshop (Penthouse Floor, 148 ATC Building, Katipunan Avenue, St. Ignatius, Manila, Philippines, 1110).