Pinoy powerhouse in fashion PR
The art of public relations takes on a different spin when set in the competitive, fast-paced world of American fashion. A typical day for a PR practitioner involves working with various editors (and their more demanding assistants) from Vogue, Bazaar, Elle, W, The New York Times, or “Italian Vogue once in a while if they are shooting in New York,” says Pampanga-born Artus Concepcion, who runs boutique fashion PR agency Headquarters PR in New York with his business partner Karina Sokolovsky. After graduating from college in San Francisco with a psychology degree (his early college years were spent at UP Clark), Artus worked for free and would get his hands “on anything,” to gain experience and learn the ropes. One of those assignments led to dressing Kate Moss backstage for a fashion show. He honed his skills at top fashion PR firms, starting out at the legendary KCD (which handles clients such as Marc Jacobs, Versace, Chloe, Anna Sui and Calvin Klein), then Paul Wilmont Communications, and Showroom Seven, a sales showroom and PR agency (where he recruited Jimmy Choo from London for the American market, as they didn’t have a publicist in New York then).
From his loft office on Seventh Avenue in Manhattan’s Fashion District, Artus shares his experiences in the fashion PR industry. He does the expected partying and working with celebrity wranglers (people who pay the celebs to show up at events or fashion shows), but he and his team also do the creative and strategic planning needed for truly successful campaigns. The work covers writing press releases and press kits, hosting events and previews, placing fashion features, product placement and celebrity placements.
Now approaching 20 years in the business, Artus has done projects for designers such as Vivienne Tam and Catherine Malandrino. Today his firm represents a slew of hot young designers including True Religion Brand Jeans, Napapijri, Celestina, Rose Anne de Pampelonne, Sanuk, J.Jill, and most recent client Rajo Laurel. His Filipino clients in particular are significant for him, as they bridge the style divide between Manila and New York, and help Filipino designers tap the American market. Despite the glamour and celebrity-filled days, Artus remains simple and unaffected, and enjoys his visits to the Philippines. “When I’m home in the Philippines, I just stay home,“ says Artus, who will be in Manila this December. “Gusto ko lang puto bumbong at bibingka.”
PHILIPPINE STAR: How was the experience when you were beginning in this industry? Did you have a difficult time getting started?
ARTUS CONCEPCION: Well, I’ve paid my dues. No, because I was hungry. I have a slew of interns every summer. My girls now feel they’re entitled. They think it’s all about parties. When I was younger, I had a different mentality. I worked hard. Yes, I went to good parties, but not the best ones at that time because I was a junior. But now I’m over parties. I send my girls. I send my employees.
Why would a designer opt to work with a boutique agency?
We do not take on any designers who will conflict with our other designers. We work with a full range of categories and our designers are unique to that market within our firm. At larger agencies, designers can get lost in a large mix or be overshadowed by a larger designer in the same category. What separates us from bigger agencies is we do not assign clients to an account executive. The partners of the agency handle all the client base.
Describe some of the events you’ve handled.
We coordinated a Moroccan-themed sitdown dinner for the men’s fashion media elite at designer John Bartlett’s home in New York City. Simon Doonan and Jonathan Adler were in attendance. A few years ago, we did an event for Global Green (for the Al Gore film An Inconvenient Truth) so it was a big event—a sitdown dinner, where they talked about the environment. It was hosted by Josh Lucas and Ed Norton. We made it fashionable and invited editors there.
How do you put a spin to a fashion PR event?
If it’s a store opening, invite 200 people and half of them show up. Always over-invite. You start with a meeting, with a budget. My client will give us a budget for food, catering, wait staff, DJ, décor, invitations. And we work on the RSVPs. We work with celebrity stylists and celebrity wranglers – they’re the ones who bring in celebrities to a show. If you don’t have a budget of more than $15,000, they can’t bring you a celebrity. They’ll bring you one. And (you’re lucky) if you have two. Mischa Barton could be one. You get one and the other one might be a big celebrity who’s on TV. Some of them could be friends—like Marc Jacobs, he has his own friends but he still pays them. They fly them there, they give them clothes. Sofia Coppola always attends for free, but then others are paid. Unless you’re very friendly with celebrity stylists like Rachel Zoe, who goes to shows with either Lindsay Lohan or Nicole Ritchie or Mischa Barton, but some of the celeb stylists don’t attend the shows. You have to invite their publicists so you say, "Oh we have this kind of money."
What is a usual day like?
Our days are filled with a flurry of phone calls and e-mails from editors, stylists, and reporters. We are constantly fielding and making calls on behalf of our designers to maximize their exposure.
Are there a lot of divas in fashion media?
Wala nang diva ngayon. Sometimes they complain. You know I always think that yeah, it’s my livelihood, I’ve been doing this for years. But you know, why the attitude? Even at fashion shows they complain. "Why am I only second row? Why am I not on the front row?" I think, you know, big deal, this is fashion. You’re not healing the world. You’re not Angelina Jolie in Africa helping people. This is fashion. It’s clothes. Get over it.
Tell us about your work for two more Filipino designers, Rajo Laurel and Paris-based accessories designer Rose Anne De Pampelonne?
Rajo will be dressing the Hollywood elite for red carpet events. He will be making a big impact in the US in the evening category. Rose Anne de Pampelonne is getting a lot of attention from the American fashion industry for her innovative use of embroidery. Since coordinating features in Vogue and Elle, we have been working with many popular television shows to showcase her line as well as celebrity placements.
Is the Filipino market or Filipino clients a chunk of the market you are consciously going after?
No, but due to our great success with Celestina, we have been attracting more Filipino designers. This is not to say that we don’t want to tap this up-and-coming market in South East Asia, there is a lot of undiscovered talent out there.
How can Filipino brands and designers make it in the US market?
They absolutely have to have a unique point of view and craft. Filipinos have a lot of skilled artisans and natural resources. They are capable of producing products that are currently unavailable in the US, they just have to be specific and focused.
How do you come up with new, non-traditional techniques?
I’m lucky to work with a very creative team who is in touch with trends and constantly push the envelope to try to top what’s out there. Together we try to come up with exciting and innovative ways to position our designers as the authority in the industry.
What do you think Filipino fashion PR practitioners can learn from your experiences?
You have to be quick on your feet and be able to multitask. You can miss an opportunity in a matter of hours so acting quickly on leads is an integral part of success in PR.
Is there a winning formula for holding PR events?
If there were a formula, anyone could do this! Each event has to be specific to the designer and who will be attending. Celebrity attendance or hosting or chairing the event usually get a lot of press and coverage. Whether it be a store opening, a magazine-hosted party, a movie premiere or a charity event.
What trends are changing the face of PR?
There has been a major shift to online media. People want immediate access to information so we’ve been working a lot with fashion websites and blogs.
How are you keeping yourself grounded or keeping your personal balance amidst the work?
I’m lucky that in my position I can leave work at the office. I don’t have to bring home the stress and projects and work around the clock. Some people mix their personal and professional lives but I’ve never made a habit of that. I have a wonderfully supportive family to which I am very close. I love to travel to exotic and chic destinations with my partner and explore new cultures and I am also an avid tennis player in my free time.
What do people not know about PR that you wish they knew?
PR is not for everyone. You need to be outgoing and motivated to be successful. It’s not all about parties and fashion shows. There are a lot of glamorous aspects to the life, but you have to work hard through the less than chic moments to get there.
What inspires you and keeps you creative?
Innovative designers. I am inspired when I can offer them creative feedback and trend direction.
What are your favorite fashion brands?
My favorite brands are Marni, Maison Martin Margiella and Dries Van Noten. I’m not a slave to fashion, but who doesn’t love to look stylish?