A mighty heart

At first glance, you know fashion designer Puey Quiñones is a curious character, starting with his moniker up to his glazed, sculpted hair, from his diminutive frame to his signature ensemble of floor-sweeping wrap skirts, layered shirts and the occasional turban. Even more curious is how he manages to pull it all off, not with the affected, even haughty air most designers adopt, but with a puckish energy that suits him quite well.

In the last few years, Puey has used this energy to endear himself to the fashion cognoscenti and the lifestyle press; it is his talent and ingenious silhouettes, however, that have built him a client base composed of Manila’s elite, including the likes of Imee Marcos and KC Concepcion.

Puey designs as he dresses: raw, layered and luxuriously ragged, combining texture-heavy fabric with haphazard geometry, stiff patterns and uninhibited imagination. After eight years of showing off his unconventional creations at pocket shows and collective appearances, Puey Quiñones is officially, if not literally, going big-time with his very first gala show on Jan. 17 called “LuxeFusion.” This time, Puey shrugs off the remaining inhibitions he has and comes up with a collection that alternately affirms and surprises. Making use of a well-appointed mix of fabric such as dupione silk, silk organza, local piña fabric from Tipina and sinuous jerseys, Puey’s gala offerings include eye-popping pieces such as a geometric gown meant to both swathe and drape the body at the same time and a surprisingly minimal (by Puey’s standards, anyway) miniscule shift dress liberally appliquéd with domino-like squares.

While these decadent creations are being highly publicized, less so is another project that Puey started a few months ago. Every week since mid-September, Puey has been making trips to the New Bilibid Prison in Muntinlupa, where he instructs inmates on the workings of art and fashion. The result of this charitable act — long gowns magnificently hand-painted and customized by the inmates themselves — will also be exhibited in his gala show.

In an interview, the wee designer talks more about his work with inmates, the follies of wearing a skirt, and his platform in case he runs for president.

What inspired this new collection?

My inspiration is luxury, and the title of my show is “LuxeFusion.” It’s all about lavishness, opulence, extravagance and the fusion of combining all these elements.

What prompted your Bilibid project?

It started when my uncle, Andy Maluche, a German photographer/artist and the husband of my tita, invited me to observe his workshop inside the prison, through the help of the Lamb of God foundation. I said, “Okay, I will try it out.” Dapat once lang ang visit na yun, but I saw a lot of talented and skilled inmates, and I said why not teach them fashion? That is how I started my outreach program. Every Tuesday, I go to the maximum security in the New Bilibid Prison in Muntinlupa to teach 30 inmates about fashion and art. We do textile painting, weaving, embroidery and we will also do crochet in the future. It’s basically a project on product development. My aim is to “correct their eye” and improve their skills, at the same time be able to provide them with a means of income.

How did you reconcile this prison project with designing for Manila’s elite?

I was a bit hesitant at first to speak openly about my project because I was unsure how my friends and clients would react. Then I realized that there is no shame in sharing the knowledge and blessings you’ve attained with others, despite who they are and what they’ve done.  Hindi ko tinitingnan ang mga krimen, ang tinitingnan ko lang ay ang talent nila. The best thing about it is how extremely fulfilling the whole experience has been.

Were you surprised by the outcome of this project?

Oh, yes. I have 30 male students, out of which 27 are straight and three are gay. Would you believe na mas magaling pa mag-beading, mag-conceptualize at mag-design yung straight students compared to the three gays?

What are you obsessed with right now?

Shift dresses. Pwede pala ako gumawa ng hindi layered!

Would you really suggest that men wear skirts, or is it just good for breaking the ice?

Yes! If I were president, I’d ask men to wear skirts or togas, just like the Romans did.

Do you now feel that you are at the peak of your designing career?

Every day is a learning process. It doesn’t necessarily mean that I’ve reached the peak of my career just because I’m having a gala show.  I have to learn more things before I can say, “This is it.” Fashion is a journey, an endless journey.

 Do you sometimes feel that people expect less of you because of your size?

When it comes to design, no. But so many things have happened to me simply because I’m small and wear a skirt. I went to this posh mall one time and I was wearing my usual getup: a skirt, layered shirts and a turban. As I was walking towards the entrance, the guard suddenly approached me and dragged me away, saying “Beggars are not allowed inside.” Another incident happened when I went to this antique store with a friend of mine. I wanted to buy a nice table tapos nasa labas palang ako papasok ng entrance when the guard at the door suddenly changed the “Open” sign to “Closed.” I could actually write a whole book about my experiences wearing a skirt. But I love it! I’ll wear skirts ‘til I die.

What has been the biggest obstacle to building your fashion career?

I would say money/capital. Wala akong kapera-pera when I started fashion. My family couldn’t afford to send me to fashion school: I grew up in northern Samar where my mother is a high school teacher and my father, a policeman.

When I was in college, I heard of my townmate Dennis Lustico who was designing in Manila. Doon na nag-start ang interest ko in fashion.  Although that time, sabi ko sa sarili ko imposible ata maging designer ako kasi, unang-una, ang alam ko sa fashion designers ay mayayaman sila.

I kept my dream to myself until, one day, nagbakasyon tita ko sa Samar. At that time, she and Dennis were business partners. I asked her if I could work in their factory in Manila and she said yes. I worked and helped in their shop, happy just answering the phone each time it would ring. After ko masanay answering phone calls, helping out in production, and packing garments, sabi ko sa sarili ko bakit hindi ko try mag-sketch? So, before I’d go to sleep, I would do some sketches and leave them on Dennis’ desk for him to see when he wakes up. After a while, Dennis saw my potential. Para rin akong nag-aaral every time Dennis found time to evaluate my sketches. 

What was your first big break?

One time, Bergamo, a high-end tailoring shop, called Dennis (he had previously work there) and asked if he knew someone who could design a collection for their show. Dennis recommended me right away. Tinanong ako ni Dennis, “Ready ka na ba?” and, although I was still unsure, I said yes. Deep inside, I was super-nervous. The rest is history.

When did you first feel that all your hard work had paid off?

When I saw myself on the cover of Lifestyle Asia with Imee Marcos as my muse, along with other designers and their muses.

Whose career would you like to emulate?

Inno Sotto’s and Lulu Tan Gan’s. Lulu is able to maintain her name as a brand and has established her business very well. She is like my mother, and working with her is like going to school. I’ve learned so many things from her. She’s taught me how to balance both fashion and business.

Ever get burned out? How do you deal with it?

Oh, yes, many times. I just pray to get over it and, sometimes, I go out of town or go back home to my province or I drink rum and coke. Ha, ha!

Complete this sentence: I may be small in size, but I am big in… 

Imagination and heart.