Metro magazine and Samsung held its second fashion installment at the Rockwell Tent recently. Samsung Metrowear’s “The Next Generation” featured the collections of 10 designers, a mad mix of young ‘uns looking to make a splash and the design establishment.
First out was wonderboy Ivarluski Aseron. Grey, black and white were his choice colors, inspired by chiaroscuro. Some pieces had to be figured out, others looked as if they came straight out of a Tim Burton movie (which looked very cool!), while others were suave and beautiful like the feathered mini tube dress worn by Raya Mananquil. His collection traversed the line between elegant and avant, something he does so naturally. It was all very Ivar through and through — he knows what he likes and what he is good at and sticks to it. For that, he has been a driving force for the local fashion scene and many young designers who admire (and copy) him. My only peeve? The shoes have to go!
Shades Of Gray
Black, shades of gray and off-white composed the collection of Patty Eustaquio. She shares, “The idea for the collection is basically a takeoff from images of Japanese robots, but in a softer, more feminine line. The silhouettes, however, are all vintage inspired — mostly from the 1920s and ‘30s.” She used a mix of fabrics to create more texture: twill, taffeta, linen organdy, silk, and metal and leather for embellishments. Patty is one of our country’s promising designers, acknowledged in many magazines even for her artistic style of dressing. I have seen many of her designs that I adore (in fact I chose one of her slate-blue silk cover-ups for this event) but this particular presentation seemed unlike her — it was heavy and referenced the current trend among young designers of patching and pleating odd shapes in two to three color combos. What should have looked like good structure may have turned out looking too complicated and overly conceptual. But like any true artist, she’s likely to find her groove again.
Jewel In The Palace
“For this couture collection, I took my liking of the Jang Mei (Korean rose) and translated it into the basic elements of my design pieces — shape, color, and texture,” says Antonio Garcia, whose designs were inspired by the traditional costumes of Korea’s colonial era. His menswear boasted gentlemanly details through top hats, gloves and shoe spats, while women wore pure silk in colors and patterns influenced by nature. However, Antonio’s work was not the right fit for the evening’s roster of Next Generation designers. In another group, perhaps his designs would, could work. But unfortunately, in the evening’s company, his collection looked outdated and unrefined.
Natural Beauty
Nature is a constant inspiration for Wynn Wynn Ong. “This year, my primary focus is on Beauty in Miniature.” Although her work is undeniably well-crafted, I’m not sure anyone really got to appreciate it on the runway. Her designs are not extravagant and flashy for the mere sake of bling. They are intricately detailed and forged with expert hands, and so are better appreciated in close scrutiny. Nevertheless, from near or far, she is without a doubt, one of the true gems among our country’s designers.
Old and New Mix
Cebu-based designer Protacio has a thing for shapes. His molded tube dress harem pants and cropped pea coats demonstrated his urge to play with our notions of shapes and proportions. I liked the lead-gray textured fabric he used (although some felt it looked drab), and I appreciated his attempt to thrust a progression in form and silhouette. But the overall message was out of focus. There were ‘50s, ‘80s and futuristic references; some pieces were youthful, some needed a good dusting. When taken individually, his designs could be assimilated into one’s wardrobe. But when put all together, they appeared just a little too gaudy.
Speedy Punzalan
Asked to describe his collection, LZ Punzalan replies with one word: speed. Inspired by his favorite cars, their engines, engineering, and aerodynamics, he used fabrics as diverse as leather and woven cotton, embellished with hardware like screw-type snap buttons and titanium alpha-numerics. Colors were Peruvian blue, hues of green, chrome and other iridescents. I think his concepts and color use were compliment-worthy, but generally, the audience’s reaction was blasé. Maybe it lacked a certain elegance the crowd was accustomed to seeing in his work, or maybe it lacked a sense of ease and sensibility. Whatever it was, people wanted more of the old LZ to get their hearts racing again, not a brand-new, souped-up ride.
Fairytale In Color
James Reyes’ key materials were satin, twill, cotton pique, taffeta and organdy. James reveals, “I have always been an avid collector of children’s books and for this collection, I took inspiration from titles like Mary Poppins, Dr. Seuss, Alice in Wonderland and even Mother Goose.” A great prologue if you ask me, however, without the mini top hats worn by the models, it is not certain his inspirations would be clear to the audience. Yes, there were vivid elements of fun and surprise with colors like fuchsia and tomato red, bold graphic elements, grandiose silhouettes, but a seamless message was amiss. Most people were unsure how to react — like eating colorful candy with no taste. I think one of the challenges of every young creative is how to harness in all the ideas, how to sift through all the fluff and present a cohesive idea with a strong, pioneering message. James has the imagination it takes. With a little more practice in reserve and a sprinkle of fairy dust, he could be on his way to classic lit.
Leader Of The Pack
It is not as easy to make clothes as some people may think. A slew of up-and-comers and designer wannabes are sprouting up all over the globe like wild mushrooms, making it seem more evident that fashion is a fluke business. But every so often, a designer emerges from the muck to render all the so-so’s inept. Joey Samson is one of them. Although he is far from what you’d call an emerging designer, Joey has developed an aptitude for breaking away from the pack each time he shows a collection so that you take notice of him all over again. His tailoring is at once succinct and playful. He can work with metal chains to satin to wool with a swift flick of the wrist. His colors are always en pointe — the supporting cast, never the star. It is the basic construction of the garment that drives his work, not delusional or flighty concepts. For this event, he was inspired by 17th- to 18th-century church vestments and capes. He claims, “Each piece was based on how a typical vest was constructed and worn. Texture and details were adapted by way of cording the seams and cuts to simulate vestment fabrics like lamé and brocade.” Cool, instead of using ready-made fabric, why not simulate it with other materials? I hope the Pope is just as thrilled.
Step in what direction?
Brian Tenorio has gained much acclaim for his dedication to his craft and for being one of the few footwear designers in our country. His collection was fun, whimsical, imaginative, but again, the overall presentation had no cohesive direction. Where does he want to take footwear? Is it quirky? Is it glitzy and embellished? Is it punk? We want to know. Local production of footwear is a huge challenge due to lack of materials and skilled workers, so I do not blame him if he shifts from one idea to another, attempting to get his grasp on any workable design. A paradigm shift of sorts must take place. Rather than using imported materials, explore the use of indigenous products for heels, soles, trims and uppers. Find ways around the problem. Revamp the industry, go off the beaten path. Brian is a jewel in the rough. With support from the industry, maybe the government, private backers or foreign investment, he could dazzle us all.
Showstopper
Cebuano designer Cary Santiago was the talk of the evening. He was last to show, but first on everyone’s lips. His shapes are nothing groundbreaking — they are classic, elegant and easily wearable. But the quality of craftsmanship and the execution of his ideas are unparalleled. His ethereal gowns had fine cutouts in filigree patterns, a takeoff from his previous work. Like Antonio Garcia, I am not sure he really belongs to the event’s designer lineup, mainly because he has single-handedly carved a niche of his own. Cary has upped the standard of Philippine couture. His work sends a memo out to all designers: Stop complaining about our plight, start working towards excellence. Designers like him will finally give us the worldwide attention our fashion industry deserves.
Cheers to all the designers! I am sure we will only see better and brighter ideas in the future… and I can’t wait!
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Samsung Metrowear was also sponsored by Metrobank Femme, Filigrenesia, L’oreal Profesionnel, cocktails from The Mandarin, and Shu Uemura.