However, sometimes reinventing something can save a bad reputation. At the very first Tatler ball, Nicolette Bell stole the show wearing something that was not quite a tux but not quite a gown either. The designer who made her dress was a young man named Joey Samson. He took elements of the tux, done all in cream, and put just the right amount of beads on an ensemble that was unapologetically feminine. He put elements of menswear – from cuffs to collars to sleeves (using them literally as a train). fabric – and transformed them into a delectable piece of couture. It was the anti-tomboy Annie Hall look.
Today, Joey’s pieces are for both men and women, taking a cue from vintage French styles and a lot of rock n’ roll. "I wanted to focus on something that reflected my perspective. And these clothes are slightly nostalgic but timeless and, at the same time, have a very contemporary feel," Joey shares. He adds, "These are clothes that challenge people and move them. What is important to me, however, is knowing when to stop." His pieces, indeed, have a certain grace and restraint, despite their avant-garde cachet. His menswear pieces are also moving fast, becoming a staple in every Details-reading homo-sapien’s wardrobe. "For menswear, I’m trying to marry elements of suit and sportswear."
His aesthetic, though unconventional, is not meant to reference the circus. "People always want to be shocked; they want explosive fashion. But explosions don’t last. They disappear immediately and leave nothing but ashes. What I’m trying to do right now is strengthen my work by way of refinement and beauty in movement and appearance, to create garments that have form, function and comfort."
Although he admits that his fetish for menswear came from his father’s rather fashionable wardrobe, his real talent is in creating pieces inspired by uniforms – military and naval uniforms in particular. Now that is another Freudian episode on its own.