And now, a silkier, younger look

Silk Cocoon, the design label and fabric company spearheaded and developed by fashion designer Jeannie Goulbourn takes on a new and fresh look. Now directly under the creative hands of her daughter Katrina, Silk Cocoon’s approach to fashion is slowly moving from formal to fashionably flamboyant.

Young designer Katrina reports, "Silk Cocoon is not really couture, but it’s not ready-to-wear either. It’s kind of in-between. We still do a lot of made-to-order and formal wear for our customers, but at the same time, we have pieces you can easily get off the rack. For the upcoming collection, my designs are composed of wearable pieces and separates. I guess I want to really move it into the ready-to-wear direction."

The look remains elegant, insists Katrina. She continues: "I observe that more and more women are opting for clothes they can wear from office to cocktails to dinner and so on. Today’s lifestyle requires outfits that are versatile and easy. Before, Silk Cocoon was more focused on sets and evening wear. This time, I want to make it look younger and more hip. I want to refresh the look because the market is more experimental. So, I created something with a youthful edge but still with a sophisticated touch Silk Cocoon has been known for. The collection targets young adults yet appeals to a mature crowd. It’s for the young and young-at-heart."

This shift in style philosophy is clearly manifested in Silk Cocoon’s choice of their first-ever signature model, 16-year-old Gwennaelle "Gwen" Ruais, a towering half-French, half-Filipino whose versatile looks helped her get the post. Gwen is the daughter of Malou Ruais, a Filipino model who made it big in the Paris fashion scene in the ’80s. At the peak of her career, Malou was sashaying for designers like Yves Saint-Laurent and posing for ad campaigns of Emanuel Ungaro.

Katrina explains why they chose Gwen. "She stands 6’1" and by the looks of it, is still growing. I met her a couple of years ago on one of my visits to Paris. She was already very tall and beautiful, standing 5’8" at 13 or 14 years old. I asked her mom if she’d allow her to model. Her mom said Gwen had to wait until she’s a bit older. Eventually they moved back here to Manila, and I asked again. This time, Gwen’s mom said yes."

The typical Filipina stands five feet. A foot taller than the average, Gwen says, "When I was living in Paris, I was normal. In Manila, when I go to the malls, people stare at me because I’m so tall. But I’m not really conscious. In fact, I still wear high heels. I love stilettos."

Katrina continues, "We chose Gwen because she’s got a versatile aura. She can change her look depending on what she’s wearing. She can be Filipina, Latina or European. She can look exotic or Caucasian. It just depends on how she’s dressed up or made up. Also, she’s very intelligent and easy-going. When we started shooting for fashion pictorials, it was obvious she’s a natural."

And natural she definitely is, con-sidering she’s got an international supermodel for a mom. Gwen muses, "I’ve been waiting to model for a long time. I love to dress up. I enjoy photography — both in front and behind the camera. Of course, my mom influenced me a lot. I saw a lot of her photos when she was modeling. She used to bring me to her fashion shows because she didn’t want to leave me with the yaya. She modeled even when she was pregnant. There’s an Ungaro ad where she was about four months pregnant with me when it was shot. After she gave birth, she went back to modeling immediately. I guess modeling is in my blood because I’m having so much fun doing it."

An inveterate fashion lover herself, Gwen’s exposure to both East and West has given her an eclectic taste in clothes. She expounds, "I love wearing clothes with lots of personality and character. I don’t have one style, though. The clothes in my closet are mixed. Some are European, some are Asian. The same goes for my personality. I’m natural and open-minded. I’m happy that I have the best of both worlds. When I lived in France, I ate Filipino food and spoke Tagalog."

This fusion of East and West has found its way in the new collection of Silk Cocoon. Katrina explains, "Although the collection looks very European, there is an undeniable Asian touch. I grew up heavily influenced by my mom, her aunt Salvacion Higgins, and my cousin Mark Higgins. I am inspired by old Japanese or Chinese pottery. I get ideas from old Filipino books, architecture and Oriental art." She adds: "The new designs are separate pieces like piña silk blouses, stretch blouses mixed with silk yet done with a hand-woven feeling. My thrust is simplicity in design with an Asian element. Cuts are basic; accent makes the difference. Since I don’t focus on prints, I inject texture through beading and embroidery. Our trademark is really the fabric."

Katrina also mixes silk with fabrics like stretch, lace, denim, taffeta and crepe. She explains, "Piña silk is sheer, light and stiff. It looks very chic. Copper silk wrinkles and can be molded so it’s easy to play around with it. It’s a great material for bustiers, jackets, skirts, gowns and bags. We originally made abaca silk for Christian Lacroix. It’s really meant for evening wear, but I use it to make shawls that are less on the abaca and more on the silk so it’s not so stiff. And what’s nice about it is it’s natural to the Philippines so it has a distinct look. Of course, I use a lot of our plain hand-woven silk with different finishes."

The new collection was developed with these fabrics in mind and features tunics, fringed tops and sarongs. Katrina notes, "Sarongs are good because they’re easy to wear. If the wrap skirt is embroidered or beaded, it can look really nice. It’s a perfect outfit for entertaining at home or for cocktails or even a beach wedding."

Accessories are key for the holiday season as well. Katrina says, "Bags are important. I did a copper silk bag with feathers and beading which can be used for casual or formal affairs. Belts are also in style. I did a beaded belt with coco beads and mother-of-pearl for a Filipino feel. I also like using brocade belts for an Asian touch."

As for colors, Katrina says earth tones reign supreme this season such as grayish blue and burgundy. She notes, "I still like using turquoise, fuchsia, red and other bright colors for accent." She predicts: "Next year, we will be seeing more smoky and subdued colors and maybe some pastels. White will be very ‘in’. So keep those blacks that made a comeback this year. Also, neutrals will be strong like eggplant, chocolate, coffee, and elements of gray. As for the look, bohemian will still be popular but will be much more subtle, taking influences from India and South America."

Silk Cocoon is also popular for their barongs. Katrina experiments with patterns and treatments to give the barong a modern twist. She explains: "I focused on geometric patters with raffia, mother-of-pearl and frisson appliques."

Modern but nothing too fancy — definitely what Katrina wants to achieve with her designs. She says: "The most important thing about fashion is to create an individual style. That includes body type, proportion, coloring, and lifestyle. Have fun with fashion. Wear the clothes and don’t let them wear you!"

Fashion by KATRINA GOULBOURN for SILK COCOON
Modelled by GWENNAELLE RUAIS, MARK JENTES AND ED FEIST
Photos by RAYMUND ISAAC